Manchester-by-the-sea to Wentworth-By-The-Sea
We left the sanctity of Manchester by the Sea and headed out to the very area of ocean now made so famous by the brave Gloucester fishing fleet made by the book, Perfect Storm, written by Sebastian Junger and the follow up movie with actor George Clooney. We all know it. It has given us all great insight into the brave and dangerous souls that venture out into this unpredictable ocean. Somehow it made the hair on my neck stand up as we cruised by Gloucester in the distance. You can’t help but think of it and glance away from the shore into the endless never-ending horizon of the open ocean and wonder at their adventures. We past a passing fishing boat much like the Andrea Gail http://www.artseaphotos.com/featured_photo.htm . We stared and thought the Andrea Gail was very much like this boat that passed us. Today it’s hard to imagine the rough seas that they experienced that October as we cruise along on a bright shiny day, no wind or waves to speak of.
We will not be stopping at Gloucester on this trip which we think we may look back on and wished that we did. We’ve been there many times by car and I’m sure it would take on a different appearance to us after reading the book and seeing the movie. Maybe it would be touristy and then again maybe it would be heart felt. We won’t know. We do know that we have a lot of respect for the fishermen and their hard life at sea, whether it is lobster or commercial fishing, those that make a living in all kinds of weather and grueling conditions are those to be respected and admired. Their life styles and difficulties become more apparent as we head north into their country.
Wentworth-By-the-Sea
“Picture-Perfect-By-The-Sea” is
about what it is. The Wentworth Marina adjacent to the old Wentworth Hotel
is magnificent in every detail. The stately old white hotel, recently remodel
from its not-so-long-ago ghost like appearance, sits atop the knoll overlooking
the beautiful immaculately kept yachts. The surrounding homes are breathtaking
and make one drip with envy at their views of the green and golden marshes and
others that sit majestically next to the sand and rock covered beaches, all
gazing out to the ocean.
Across the harbor entrance from the marina is the
nearby Wentworth-By-the Sea Country Club. The beauty of it all was
again a familiar changing environment as we became more and more in tune to the
effects of the tidal change, which here, was becoming more extreme at 9 feet.
As we go farther and farther north the tide becomes more extreme, and the most
extreme is Nova Scotia at 40 feet. It’s a constant changing landscape, exposing
the mud banks and wild life exploring the shores for newly exposed tasty morsels
of insects and worms to eat and then again, over and over, several hours later
the water covers it all, kissing and blanketing the shore all the way to the
base of the marsh grasses.
We enjoyed the well built floating docks and for a change, good power and friendly staff. We were at a resort and were going to enjoy it. The Latitudes Restaurant, overlooking the marina, served up the largest and most delicious lobster roll we’ve seen or tasted yet. The marina is beautiful and well maintained. No more of those fast loud speed boats racing back and forth as everyone is considerate with their speed and respectful to the peace and quiet of the area. If someone is speeding they are quickly reminded to slow down.
DON AND NICOLE
Our friends, Don and Nicole, live nearby, just across the channel. They have just completed their dream home. It’s the dream home that we all would love to live in, positioned beautifully at the end of an inlet, off the main harbor. The surrounding landscape is totally private. It’s picturesque beyond belief, with a view to die for. Their house is set back on a knoll overlooking the inlet and the marshes. From their house you can see all the way out to the old lighthouse marker at the entrance to the channel. It is visible even in bad weather as its welcoming blinking light guides many a worn and weary seaman in to this safe and beautiful harbor. It’s storybook-like and we could not believe the beauty of it all even though we saw it with our own eyes.
We just barely got settled in at the dock and Don came by to pick us up in his Boston Whaler. He whisked us away across the harbor channel heading up their private inlet. It was like a dream, gliding across the water as it was like glass. It was if we were flying, I never experienced a ride so smooth and soft. We flew passed the golf course, and ducked under the country club’s quaint wooden bridge that takes the golfers over the creek from one T to the next, and then quietly and magically sped through the marsh waters up to the very end where their house is.
Don ran the boat up on a ledge on the marsh. We all climbed off the boat unto the grass mounds and hiked our way up to their house. It wasn’t muddy but clear clean water and grass. As we got nearer, the house just became more beautiful at every angle. I really loved the wonderful architectural detail, the large sweeping windows and whimsical roof lines and special cornice details. We stepped up onto their well crafted blue stone deck and you immediately became aware of the forested surroundings which lightly opened up to focus on the beautiful view. It was all carefully constructed not to take away from the surroundings by not clear cutting the area. Their manicured grass rolled down a knoll to meet the marsh grasses and the delicately laced trees outlined just enough of the view to frame it perfectly.
Inside and out the house was a beautiful statement of space, grace and good taste. All the special details were elegantly hand crafted with a good eye to design. Every room takes advantage of the spectacular views and total privacy of their land. Just as we were getting the tour, dark ominous clouds crept in so quickly and dramatically, covering the area like a thick dark blanket, that it was a bit frightening. Soon the clouds began to erupt into a HUGE thunder and lightening storm. There was powerful cracking of lighting and deep pounding of thunder, like I never heard before. A down pour, like a river of water followed. It was hair raising but yet exciting. First the rain and then came the pelting hail.
Still throughout all the
turmoil, the view from this house was amazing. I watched as the water became
glass like and black and dark. The grasses waved in unison to the whisking
circling pattern of the wind. The lighthouse continued to light any weary
traveler into the harbor. Don’s plans take us out on the Boston Whaler up to
Chauncey Creek to have a traditional lobster dinner on the river were defeated
by the weather’s dramatic display.
Ziggy was shivering from fright as the thunder and lightening took over. We could hear, Blaze, Nichol and Don’s 6 month old champion boxer, barking from another room, wondering about all the noise. He wanted desperately to be included in the group as he was probably scared too but we all decided to be on the safe side to keep the dogs separated as Ziggy sometimes has issues. It was very kind of Nicole and Don to give Ziggy priority for the evening though I’m not sure he deserved it. We gave in to weather and decided to take the car to Chauncey’s Lobster House instead of the boat, which would take 30 minutes on the meandering roads around the waterways instead of a quick 5 minute trip by boat.
CHAUNCEY’S LOBSTER HOUSE
Don and Nicole packed the an
ice chest with wine, bottled water, potato salad and other snacks to accompany
the lobsters, and threw it into the back of their car and off we went. We
finally reached Chauncey’s after winding our way over horse and buggy trails now
paved over with asphalt and traveled by gas powered vehicles to a charming but
rustic place right on the creek. We walked down the wooden stairs to the wood
dock hanging over the Creek, partially covered with colorful striped awnings,
and loaded with picnic tables and benches. We grabbed a table under an awning
because the weather looked like it might have a couple more powerful punches
left in it. Don ordered 2 pound lobsters for each of us and we
waited for them to be delivered to the table. I’ve never had a 2
pound lobster in my life! Due to the weather, the place was pretty empty,
except for a few hearty people like us, at a couple nearby tables. We were all
hovering under cover of the tent like awnings as the weather did another
encore. This is one restaurant that allows dogs and Ziggy was glad to be with
us on this stormy night. He hovered in fear under the picnic table, as the
lightening and thunder began to play another symphony for our amusement.
After about 15 minutes two bowls full of mouth watering steamed clams were delivered along with two cups of steamer water and two cups of melted butter to dip them in. We got instructions on how to eat what we call “pisser clams”. You grab them by their “organ” and peel off the outer membrane and then dip and eat and they are the most delicious clams you’ve ever eaten. MMMmm Yumm. Couldn’t talk Larry into one though.
Soon the lobsters arrived, piled orderly on a tray accompanied by more drawn butter. They were the biggest most luscious looking lobsters I’ve ever seen and they tasted just as delicious as they looked. Nicole showed us how she eats lobsters. It’s calculated and thorough; after all she’s a true New England lobster eater with lots of experience. First you pull off the tail and set it aside to cool off. You then pull off the claws and set them aside for later, and finally you pull off the small skinny legs. She says she begins by sucking all the meat out of the skinny legs first and then goes for the big stuff like the claws and tail and then finally, but this is where we drew the line, she opens the back and fines all kinds of good stuff in there. Mmmm they were delicious!
It was truly a wonderful evening and a night we will remember for ever. Thanks Nicole and Don! We’re so happy we stopped to see you both in Wentworth by the Sea, what a special place! It is as beautiful as you said. Thanks for all your hospitality!
SUSIE AND BUD ARRIVE
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The next day, Susie and Bud
were due to arrive, traveling all the way from Pasadena, California. They are
sports if you ever met any as they have joined us many times on boating
adventures. One trip, in the Pacific Northwest, it rained around the clock but
still they were up beat and made the most of it and still come again to see us
here. They’re like family and no need to worry about anything when they are
aboard as they pitch in and make it a fun adventure.
I was kayaking with Ziggy when they arrived. It was a beautiful day, the sun was out and it was warm. We got them settled in and then Susie and I went to the grocery store nearby to get some supplies for the next few days. We decided not to cook the first night as we wanted to take them to Chauncey’s so they could have the lobster experience too. You just don’t experience things like that in California. So off we went on our own this time in the rental car. It was no easy task finding the place because all the locals go by small boat and no one really knew how to give us directions driving a car but Bud mastered it and got us there and back with no problems.
We had no trouble scoffing down another batch of two pound lobsters each and a juicy bowl of steamed clams. We’re getting quite a few notches on our lobster consumption list by now.
Tomorrow we head out, north to Kennebunkport, Maine.
