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Well, after getting settled in to our dock space at Campbell River, we had a couple days to kill before we went to Nootka Sound. We spent our time getting our fix enjoying several Starbucks lattes and cappuccinos at the nearby mall, after several months without, and eating in restaurants, and driving around visiting local areas. We were timing everything around our planned adventure on the MV Uchuck III and its schedule. The most important factor to us was whether they allowed dogs on board and amazingly they did, so then the trip was a go and planned and reservations made. We were thrilled that Zig could go as we wouldn’t have been able to do it without taking him. MV Uchuck has day trips and over night trips servicing areas in remote Nootka Sound. We opted for the day trip because of Ziggy as we weren’t sure if there would be overnight accommodations out on Nootka Sound that would allow dogs. This will be our first exposure to the west side of Vancouver Island, which is full of history and beautiful isolated scenery. I just can’t wait.
In the meantime, we took advantage of every moment while in Campbell River enjoying the use of our rental car. We drove everywhere. One day we drove south to Courtenay and Comox and it was a beautiful drive along the beach and inland through farmland and beautiful valleys. We stopped first at Courtenay which situated in a wide river valley that is well known as a Mecca for finding prehistoric fossils along the river bed. Comox is very near, just at the wide mouth of the river and it’s a beautiful town also. It has a very active fun harbor and certainly would be a great destination to come to by boat. There are lots of activities, shops and restaurants and all within walking distance. There is a naval base nearby at the end of their beautiful long sandspit and unfortunately the day we were there they were having firing practice and it sounded a bit like fire works which really put Zig on edge. I’m not sure if that goes on everyday but is a consideration if you have a dog because as we all know, they don’t like noises like that. We had afternoon tea at Filberg Heritage Park, which over looks the mouth of the river situated on their beautifully landscaped grounds which when we were there were filled with flowers. We’d always wanted to see Comox and had wondered about stopping there by boat more than once and now know that it certainly would be a good destination. It was a full day’s drive to see both towns and we were rewarded by lots of great things to see and do. SEYMOUR NARROWS We also drove a bit north of Campbell River to get an over view of Seymour Narrows from the road that is perched high above. It was a fantastic sight. And we took some time out to visit a nearby fish hatchery and learned an amazing amount about something we’d always been very curious about.
And soon it was time to head west and weave our way through those magnificent mountains that we saw as we came out Seymour Narrows. It’s about a 4 hour drive to Gold River at the upper reaches of Muchalat Inlet depending on how much you stop to sight see along the way. At the base of Gold River and the upper reaches of Muchalat Inlet is where we will be boarding MV Uchuck III. We left the day before our scheduled departure on Uchuck. We had reservations at a lodge for two nights so we would be there in time to catch the 10:00 AM departure and then have a place to sleep that night when we returned from a long day on Nootka Sound. Uchuck is a native name meaning “healing waters” but I wonder about the name as I can imagine there probably are many days where the water isn’t so healing out there on the Sound and Up-chuck may be a accurate meaning on those days. We think we’ve got a good weather window for our trip, let’s hope so. First off, we were very surprised to find the road to the West side is surprisingly well paved. I’m not sure what we expected but I guess something more rustic and maybe more gravel. The scenery was a bit less than expected again only because of the extensive logging along the way even though we traveled through a spectacular mountain range. Somehow a patchwork quilt of logging is not my idea of spectacular scenery no matter how you look at it but alas the reason the road is in such good shape. Well and I guess really, the only reason the road is there as it’s main reason for being is to service the logging industry and get workers to the recently built town of Gold River, the base for all the logging in this area. I mean, really, the town has only been in existence since 1964 when Tashis Company began logging at the mouth of the river. It wasn’t long after that the construction of a huge pulp mill followed at the base of the river. A year later the town was built to service the mill and then naturally in the eighties along came a paper mill which lasted until the late 90’s. All these things need a road to survive. Along the drive you pass
through Strathcona Park. It’s nestled at the top of the mountains
overlooking a lake where a scenic rustic lodge and the park headquarters
are located. It is open to passersby for dinner and lunch. Once you
weave around the lake you then head down the other side of the mountains
following Gold River all the way to the upper most reaches of Muchalat
Inlet and the logging town of Gold River itself and you are officially on
the west side.
Gold River, though not a beautiful city, as it looks like a typical of mid century plain vanilla cookie cutter plan, is nevertheless set in a beautiful setting and makes it all seems beautiful no matter what the architecture. It reminded us very much of Switzerland minus the characteristic chalet architecture only because it is set beautifully with a valley with steep mountains on all sides. It’s quiet and beautiful and the air is clear. We arrived fairly early in the day and decided to continue on down the road for awhile exploring. We decided to take one of the logging roads part way to Tahsis. That idea quickly deteriorated as the road quickly turns into a rough gravel logging road and unless you are a big fan of dirt in the mouth and face it’s not a pleasant drive so we quickly decided after an hour that this wasn’t a good idea. We turned around and headed back and still instead of heading back to Gold River we decided to go see the nearby caves.
Caves and spelunking are not something that we have ever been interested in or even adventurous enough to think about doing but we thought at least it would be a good way to spend the rest of the afternoon hiking into the forest where the caves were and gave us an opportunity to stretch our car weary legs. Well, I’ve got to say, it was the best decision we’ve made in a long time. The trail into the forest was well maintained and easy hiking and we were rewarded with some outstanding scenery and the caves were, well just spectacular. You could climb right into them easily and safely and they opened into the most amazing caverns. They were absolutely breathtaking and I would highly recommend taking this side trip. Unfortunately, we were beginning to have problems with our camera and could not get any great shots to show you how truly wondrous the caves were so you’ll have to take our word for it. Zig had a great time and loved exploring all the tunnels, running in and out of all the little places that we couldn’t fit. A small river ran through parts of the caves and the sound of water falls were everywhere. Don’t miss taking the time to see these amazing caves. You don’t have to climb and hike deep into the caves because the beautiful cavern rooms are right near the entrances. The ease of exploring them made it so enjoyable because we are not into exploring dark tunnels leading deep in to the earth, especially by ourselves and far from civilization. These are definitely doable for anyone and very safe. GOLD RIVER That evening we stayed overnight in a place called Gold River Chalet and the place was just fine, very clean and comfortable and located right in the center of the town which doesn’t necessarily mean much as there’s not much to do, but is within walking distance of a really great little restaurant. The most important thing to us about the Chalet was that it was clean and allowed dogs. That night we had surprisingly the most fabulous dinner at a place called Odika which touts food from around the world. The place was packed with locals and out of towners as well and what I saw coming out of the kitchen looked fabulous and what we tasted was really great. It was such a surprise to find such a sophisticated little restaurant in such a remote location. It was very citified. In the morning, the Chalet offers a typical continental breakfast, all self-serve but since we were up early and had a lot of time blow before we needed to get down to the dock we decided to search the little town for a breakfast place. The only place we found was a little store front in a small strip mall called Uptown Cappuccino. The sign said “home-style breakfast” so, what the heck, we went in. It actually turned out to be a fun experience. It’s certainly where the locals go and the owner, a man I think of Russian descent, does everything, serves and makes the coffee and cooks your breakfast on an electric skillet on his back counter. It was nothing fancy but the fun part was talking to this guy and the locals. Don’t miss it.
It’s about a 10-20 minute drive from town down to the mouth of the river and where the small commercial dock is where Uchuck is docked. You may be a little disappointed to see the beautiful mouth of the river where the Muchalat Inlet meets it as it is a bit overwhelmed by the huge pulp mill right by the docks but soon you forget all about that when you lay eyes on MV UCHUCK III. It’s cute as a button. There it is waiting at the dock and you just can’t believe that you are actually going to be able to ride this old mine sweeper out to Nootka Sound. Before you know it, out of no where people begin to arrive and soon are lined up for the adventure. I think they sold out every ticket that morning. The weather was warm and sunny and it was going to be a perfect day. About 9:45 they started loading passengers. You walk across a long gang plank and on to the ship and are free to go anywhere on the boat to find a seat. Since we lucked out with the weather and it looked like the seas were going to be calm we opted for a bench on the upper deck so we could take in all the scenery. Many rushed below to get a seat inside the dining area. Of course if you bring your dog you can’t take your dog inside so expect to ride outside without much shelter even if the weather is bad. Surprisingly there were a lot of people who brought their dogs. Soon everyone is settled and off we go. There was no demonstration of safety procedures which was surprisingly with all these people but I guess that’s what it’s like out here in the rough. You are expected to figure it out like everything else. Many people on board were like us, there for the ride and see the sights. Some people though were planning to stay on the coast for a few days and camp out, mostly spending their time hiking or kayaking the wild coast. There are we read some cabins you can rent on the coast, about five, I think, and run and operated by the first nation’s tribe. The boat is really great and you will just love it. It’s brightly painted and there are lots of places to roam around and sit. There is a big upper back deck and then up front above the cargo hold is another deck, and up around the pilot house there is a small deck and lots of walk-a-rounds. Inside is the dining room, with a small galley and a counter where you can buy snacks and lunch. During the whole trip you would smell the wonderful aromas emanating from the galley like freshly baked muffins and cookies and homemade soups. You could also buy delicious sandwiches and hot fresh brewed coffee. The inside of the dining area was so cute. It looked authentically old fashioned with little wood booths and the tables whose table tops were decorated with nautical charts under plexi. The walls were covered in wood paneling and there were lots of windows to look out. On the outside wrapping around the dining room were wonderful old fashioned covered walk-a-rounds for viewing and stretching your legs. It is a wonderful ship. We were so excited to be cruising an inlet on the west side. It was a chance to see what was over here without actually having to go to all the trouble of bringing our boat around. The rugged mountains and inlets are beautiful but of course you have to overlook the disappointment that you are going to see hills logged and pass fish farms and many little fishing camps set up for sports fishermen. So, it’s not all total isolated wilderness here like I had imagined but still it’s very remote otherwise Uchuck wouldn’t be coming here servicing the locals with necessary supplies, as it’s their lifeline.
And to prove that fact, you are soon reminded of the real reason Uchuck is here. You very quickly realize that it is a working boat servicing and delivering food and supplies to those that live and work out here. About half way down the inlet we came to a stop to greet a small boat that approached us. The crew of Uchuck immediately cleared the deck of people lounging over the cargo hold. The crew removes some boards and opens the deck to the cargo hold below as the captain begins to skillfully operate the crane. He lifts up a palette filled with supplies and maneuvers it up and over the rail with the crane. He then carefully lowers it over the side and guides it slowly and steadily onto the deck of the little boat. They did it so efficiently that it looked like they’ve done that a million times. And just as quickly the little boat is speeding off back to their camp, loaded with a weeks or months worth of supplies and food. A small movie aboard m/v UCHUCK As we come out the bottom of Muchalat Inlet and into Nootka Sound you very quickly begin to feel the great swells of the Pacific and realize that we have been in very protected waters so far on this journey. The captain takes us up and around the north side of Bligh Island and by Tlupana Inlet and then around down past Tahsis Inlet. All these inlets empty into Nootka Sound. We then begin heading south towards Friendly Cove our destination for the day.
This whole area is brimming with nautical history. This is where the mystique and draw of this whole area starts for me. On our way north this summer we met an artist in Prince Rupert. He was a carver and did beautiful work. He said he was raised in Friendly Cove by an Indian family. He told us about the history of the area and ever since that meeting I’ve had this urge to come here. I also read a great book this summer a true story and record by sailor named John Jewitt. He was one of two survivors off the sailing vessel Boston who’s sad fate it was to come here in 1803. The ship was captured by the Mowachaht natives of Nootka Sound, lead by chief Maquinna and something went wrong. All of the crew except for two, counting twenty five, were massacred and their heads “were arranged in a line” for John Jewitt to identify. He and another sailor were the only two spared from this tragedy and able to tell the story of his captivity for two years with the native people. It’s a fascinating insight into the native peoples and their lifestyle. It’s a great book to read before you take this trip. The book can be bought at bookstores or is on this link complete
http://www.openlibrary.org/details/adventuresjewitt00jewiuoft
WEALTH OF HISTORY HERE
Nootka Sound also became one of the most famous stops on the West Coast of North America for explorers like Quadra from Spain and Vancouver from Britain and of course many fur traders of several nationalities. In fact, this was the spot where the British and Spanish held what they called the Nootka Convention. Vancouver and Quadra had many meetings trying to come to some agreement that would be agreeable to their countries about ownership and trading rights up this new world in the Pacific Northwest. They knew they quickly needed to come to some agreement over ownership as the Russian’s would be claiming possession soon if they didn’t. They never did come to any final agreement here but a second Nootka Convention was held in Paris in 1793 and soon there after the Spanish signed over rights of the area to the British. By then though, in just that short span of time, trade in otter pelts had so depleted the otter population that there was nothing left to continue this amazing flood of opportunists. Of course this is history in a nut shell and there is so much more and it is all well documented in the information newspaper that Uchuck provides during your journey. It’s a fascinating story in many respects and fuel for the imagination. For an idea of what this area looked like during the Nootka Convention, check out the painting by Bill Maximick at the link below and the following link of modern day Friendly Cove as we saw it during our trip. http://www.billmaximick.com/Galleries/Originals/NootkaConvention1792.htm http://www.billmaximick.com/Galleries/Originals/FriendlyCove.htm
Soon we were landing at the dock in Friendly Cove. I just couldn’t believe that we were actually in the harbor where all these famous sailing ships had once anchored. It was such a small little harbor too and to have seen such great explorers here before us in the same waters was thought provoking. It just seemed unbelievable to me. Perched up on the hill above the harbor is Maquinna Point Light which used to be the sight of the Spanish fort that was built in the 1700s. Across the harbor is where chief Maquinna and the Nootka people lived during the summer months. Once secured at the dock everyone aboard soon departs Uchuck and heads down the long wooden dock to shore. We are told we have 3 hours to explore the area and must return at 3:00 PM for our return trip back to Gold River. If you miss the boat I guess you are there for the next few days until she comes back this way again as no one counts passengers. Many people head off for a weeks adventure in the wilderness and others like us begin our 3 hour exploration of Friendly Cove.
Inside the little church you will not find the typical alter and accompaniments of a Roman Catholic church, instead you will find totems and other first nation carved art displayed inside where the alter normally would be. Also there is a small display of old photos and other information on the history of the area. ADVENTUROUS TRAVELERS You have plenty to see throughout the whole area and have just enough time to get back on Uchuck by 3:00 and head back to Gold River. You may notice once aboard that you have picked up a few new unfamiliar faces that are now passengers and are missing a few familiar faces that you knew from the morning trip. They have been left onshore and are either going to hike the West Coast Trail, or stay in one of the few cabins until Uchuck makes its way back in a few days to pick them up and take them back to Gold River again.
The usual afternoon winds
picked up as we headed back up the channel to Gold River. It still was
what we’d consider perfect weather for this outing and warm enough to be
comfortable on the outer deck with Zig. I’ve read though that the seas
and conditions can be rough on this trip and then the name Uchuck is
unaffectionately referred to as
The captain was a friendly guy and let anyone who was interested come up into his pilot house and have a brief hand at the helm under his watchful eye of course. It was a wonderful trip and we recommend it to anyone, though I’m not sure what it would be like in bad seas. We were glad too that dogs were allowed and there certainly were many of them on board and all were, I must say, perfectly behaved which makes it fun for everyone as we don’t want to take advantage of an opportunity like that and ruin it by letting our dogs run loose and get into trouble. As the afternoon ended and we approached Gold River we noticed some Japanese or Chinese graffiti left on a stone cliff. It was on the portside of the channel just before the mill, left long ago from another era. We wondered what old message they had left for us all to see.
We got back to the dock around 5 PM and instead of staying in the motel again we decided to head back to Campbell River and stop along the way for dinner at Strathcona Park Lodge. It turned out to be a good decision as the timing was perfect. We had a great dinner, perfectly prepared and our table overlooked the lake as we ended the day by watching a beautiful sunset and the reflection of the orange sun going down over the lake. It was a perfect ending to a perfect trip.
So long you stinking old pulp mill. Phew. It’s 6:00 AM and all is quiet. I take Zig out and head up the dock as usual and by the time Zig and I are back, the engines are started and we are on our way by 6:45. As Larry stows the lines and fenders I take her out. There is a strong pull on the boat. I’m not used to it. It’s the strong currents outside the harbor breakwater. I don’t put her on auto drive like I usually do when we get out of a harbor area and onto course as I want to feel the pull on the boat, to see what it is like. It feels like we’ve snagged something huge and hauling it well down below the water. For a brief moment I wonder if we are but no, it’s got to be the currents here. The boat vibrates slightly fighting the strength of the water today as they are really strong. Heading down the channel we momentarily lost the GPS for some reason and I switched to our alternate back up. Sometimes that happens but only rarely. There must be something in the area I guess.
SMOKE FROM THE PULP MILL Yesterday we wanted to take a walk on the very shoreline that we are passing now, but we opted not to as the sky was terribly polluted with pulp mill smoke and the smell was sickening strong that we actually didn’t think it would be healthy to go out and exercise in it. Our eyes, watered from the acid in the air and our stomachs soured from the smell of it and our heads ached from it. The smell is distinctive, somewhere between a sour dog fart and chemical smoke. We don’t know how the locals can stand it and surely it can’t be healthy for them. I guess though, sadly like most places, the local industry keeps them going economically. Of course the star of economy used to be and the memory still is the strong draw of what used to be some of the best salmon fishing in the country, now it’s only flash backs of what it was. FISHERY Yesterday, instead of walking, we visited the government fishery nearby and I must say they are giving that idea a noble effort to re-supply the nearby streams with the last remaining grand salmon but the streams will never be what they were. It’s such an impossible plight. It’s such a sad commentary on what has happened to the salmon in so many places we’ve traveled this summer and especially here in the “capitol of Salmon country”. The fish hatchery described and displayed what seemed like a huge and insurmountable process to replicate the wild salmon’s life cycle. First they capture the salmon and very carefully salvage the eggs and sperm by a process called milking them. Then they begin a difficult, lengthy, and labor intensive job, all of which is critically timed. It’s an insurmountable challenge to raise the wild salmon and re-enter them into their streams in hopes they will perform naturally like they do in the wild and in hopes that they will still survive the journey and not be fished before they make the return in time to lay their eggs and begin the natural life cycle. It’s a noble effort in hopes that these “hatchery raised salmon” will perform the time honored tradition of nature and return on their own to lay eggs up the stream where the hatchery is. I hope it works. But sadly fish farming is so much easier and so profitable especially without restrictions or protections by the government. There are no guidelines really to protect the environment though they say they are. It’s an industry that will soon minimize any of the benefits and successes of what they are doing here at the hatchery because of the extreme costs compared to just farming the fish. I wish it were not so but where money profits are involved man has too predicatively reared his ugly head too many times before and well sadly, throughout history. FISH FARMS When we were in Nootka Sound, well actually, all the areas we cruised this summer north of here, except for the Queen Charlottes, we came across one inlet after another and were saddened to see one fish farm after another. I guess by now you know my feelings on that subject. What choice do we have though when you read scientific reports that say the ocean’s fish will be depleted by the year 2048? I guess that’s why Wood’s Hole in Cape Cod, a world respected scientific research center, has finally admitted that the way of the future will be fish farms but the only right way to do it is to establish regulations that will protect the native fish and the surrounding environments for the future generations. Right now, these fish farms aren’t regulated and they aren’t even sure if they are contaminating the waters and killing the native salmon. It’s not only here but throughout the world. You’ll see them in the market, “farmed salmon” and other farmed fish. The salmon are a third of the price of wild salmon. What is a family on a budget to do? It’s hard not to buy farmed salmon at $8.99 lb when the wild is $24.99 lb. I was shocked the other day at our local grocer whose fish monger incorrectly touted that the farmed fish are the only healthy fish to eat and that the wild fish are contaminated with pesticides and chemicals. He said he will only allow his children to eat farmed fish. We all know that the farm salmon, these robotic clones, are not even Pacific salmon, but raised in the Pacific right next to our wild salmon. They are aggressive Atlantic salmon, laced with antibiotics and sea lice. Many escape from their cages and mix with the wild pacific. What sort of effect will that have? We thought Nootka Sound on the rugged isolated West side would be virgin but sadly it isn’t either. It’s littered with one fish farm after another and it’s hard put to take a photo without a multi shaved patches of trees that have been logged across the mountains and hillsides. The scenery began to remind me of a dog coming home from the vet, its fur shaved; leaving visible a large ugly wound exposed trying to heal. It’s a shame that the people have to resort to this kind of degradation of their natural resources to survive economically. It’s a Catch 22. Sometimes I think they don’t even realize the treasures they have and had here. They have such breathtaking beauty everywhere but sadly it’s severely wounded. OK, OK, enough. I think that will be the last of the last of my rants on this subject for awhile. I promise. UNPREDICTABLE
CURRENTS, A MYSTERIOUS LINE OF DEMARKATION We are fighting the current now but I know soon the current with change. It’s a strange phenomenon here, a place like no other that I know, and I’ve mentioned it before, where the currents switch and begin to empty into Juan de Fuca to the south and on out to the Pacific and just behind us to the north the other half empties up and squeezes through the islands and out into Queen Charlotte Sound to the Pacific. The change occurs in a jagged line, a line drawn by the whim of nature that extends east of us a little farther north between the islands in the north rapids area around Arran Rapids. It’s kind of like the continental divide where one side of the hemisphere’s water drains to the East and the other side drains to the west. It’s also like the equator, and that magical point where the swirling water draining down a tub or sink will suddenly switch directions, counter clockwise. It’s all so fascinating and chocks up one more mind bogging element to the fascinating cruising up here.
I go down into the galley to make some oatmeal for breakfast and muffins for a snack later. I glance back to Campbell River but really further north, beyond to the skyline of rugged mountains that we cruised through this summer and feel a pang of sadness. I think how amazing it all is because just through that small opening of Seymour Narrows the world is like night and day. On one side is civilization and on the other is Desolation Sound and further on, heading north, is a magical place. I wonder if we’ll be back again or will this be our last time. It’s a place that has no frills, no comforts and sometimes scenery that seems the same from place to place. There are days, sometimes you think endless days, filled with fog and moisture and grayness, but then there are days completely the opposite, a complete extreme, scenes and sights beyond comprehension. It’s a land where the weather isn’t always the most comfortable and sometimes you longingly think of friends and family who are vacationing or at home in warm sunny places. But there’s an unexplainable draw to this place. Its remoteness and companionship with nature and what it hands you free on a platter is better than any vacation you could ever imagine. Each day is a challenge but yet rewarding. It’s like a board game. There are days when you roll the dice and luck out and other days you don’t. It’s a game of strategy with rewards, not the bank roll kind but the soulful kind. The sea is that way and anyone that responds to its challenges will tell you that. There’s a strange comradery you feel only with someone else that has been here and seen it. You are hooked by its challenges and rewards and at times threatened by them but more often than not, the rewards are so great that you quickly forget that hour or day of rough seas and dangers and can’t wait to try again. The current still has not changed yet. We’re anticipating and waiting to feel the change between the flows north and south. Will it be like a slack moment and then reverse? Or will we just suddenly noticed a gain in our speed and no longer the tug of the current against us? TIDES AND CURRENT HAVE CHANGED The tides and currents changed and now we’re bonded with waters linked to the south now. I never did sense the change. Larry said we’ve picked up the change in current just off Comox. Gee, that’s further south than I expected. But who knows how the waters swirl and deflect underneath only the seasoned salt and those whose lively hoods that depend on the waters know. Now days we run our ships by electronics and high tech weather reports not by the sensitivity to what the waters are. The day is pretty simple, the winds are behind us and the current is with us now as we’ve passed the line of change. We pick up some speed and the ride is smooth. A boat has emerged on the horizon. Amazingly it’s another 57 Nordhavn that has crossed the Strait today. She looks like she’s going to Comox Harbor. She’s too far away to get the name. We head south between a small island and light house just off the mainland of Vancouver Island and the current squeezes faster between the two land masses. There’s not many of us out on the Strait today, just a sailboat and one wind surfer. I guess those predictions for small craft warning has kept most of them at dock. It’s a bit windy, but the sun is out and seas are fine. Soon we are entering Nanaimo Harbor. It’s old routine for us now. Just hail the harbor master and pull in to the dock. It’s just an over night stop for us. We’re heading for Ganges in the morning and then to our final destination near Sydney. Once in Sydney we’ll see about the problem with the batteries and take another week and drive to the lower Westside of Vancouver Island to see it. I’m really looking forward to that and staying at the famous Wickannish Hotel. (We’ve got a funny story to tell about that trip) BEST SHOW IN TOWN It’s always fun coming and going out of Nanaimo Harbor because of all the harbor traffic, sailing regattas, float planes, ferries, cruisers, fishermen, etc. all coming and going. There’s a lot to watch at the dock too. We settled in easily.
Another boat came and slipped in behind us. An old couple and their daughter were on board. It was a small trawler, very light weight and the wind was catching it like a kite. They were having a problem too. Larry was gone, so I jumped out and grabbed the line for them. I couldn’t believe how light weight their boat was compared to ours. I could easily pull it in to the dock. I don’t know what they would’ve done without someone on the dock to help them as they barely could get off and on the boat. How do they manage? The Canadian Naval training ships came in a little later and docked on the big concrete docks just across from us. It seems like every time we come here they are here too. We love being at the dock in Nanaimo as there’s so much to watch. That afternoon we watched the sailboats parading their colorful sails across the harbor and the float planes coming and going in between and well, there’s just so much to enjoy an evening’s glass of wine by. Being at the dock here is the best show in town. Just when I thought I wouldn’t do this log anymore, I just couldn’t help myself, as we approached Dodd Narrows just south of Nanaimo. I love the whole tradition of all the boats leaving the dock together and heading for Dodd Narrows to pass through it at near slack tide. The winds have picked up and are blowing us against the dock pretty hard but the bow thrusters take us off the dock easily and we head out and forward passing that beautiful old wooden boat that docked in front of us last night. They all came out of the boat to watch us leave almost as if they thought we were going to bump into her but there was no problem. As I mentioned earlier, they had a hell of a time getting into the dock yesterday in the winds. After several tries at docking her on her starboard side and once being blown against and around the end of the dock, she finally, and I think unplanned, docked on her portside. They had two wild duplicate looking Jack Russell’s which were two holy tears. They were the cutest little dogs and one big bundle of energy and fun. FLOAT PLANES We head out. It was thrilling leaving the harbor early this morning as the commuter float planes were all returning from their 30 minute commuter trip from Vancouver. I was at the helm and I can tell you they made my heart skip a couple beats as they flew in right by the boat. It seems as if they are heading right towards you and then at the last minute they make a little turn and fly right by within yards and land farther up the harbor. Two different planes came in while I was heading out and one actually made me put the gear in neutral which brought Larry up to the helm quickly to see what the matter was. He said “Don’t worry about it just move over to the right of the channel more and we’ll be fine”. CUT OFF YESTERDAY SEVERAL TIMES We had to make our turn a little sooner than we planned around the last buoy marker marking the shoals at the harbor entrance over by the pulp mill as a sailboat, under sail of course, decided to make an abrupt turn in front of us. This is becoming a frequent scenario around here I’m sorry to say. Yesterday we had two sailboats that just seemed determined to cut us off course on the way down from Campbell River and as we turned a bit to signal our direction they would turn again into our path. One guy was almost determined just to hit us making Larry completely do an almost 45 degree turn. We’ve really have never come across that kind of sailboat attitude in all our cruising until we have come up into Nanaimo area. What’s the deal I wonder? You feel like they don’t like power boats. Speaking of power boats, we also got cut off rudely by a power boat yesterday as we were approaching Nanaimo Harbor. Little did I know that we would have another encounter with them again this morning? As I was saying, we had to make the turn sooner and closer to the shoal than we wanted but headed on, no problem. Up ahead we see a multitude of boats silhouetted in the morning haze as the sun was right in our face. The water is sparkling. There is what looks like blinding silvery glitter sprinkled all across the choppy waters. We see several sailboats ahead all with sails up. I wonder if they plan to sail through Dodd Narrows this morning. It wouldn’t be the first time we’ve seen them do that, in fact we’ve seen them come through with their spinnakers up. I guess they are hard core sailors up here. We also see the big tour boat called Island Spirit ahead and also several trawlers like us and some little power boats. RITE OF PASSAGE, ORDERLY OR DISORDERLY? It’s so exciting to see all the boats headed towards the narrows, all timing their arrival for the right currents. I love this right of passage through the last significant narrows before heading south. The only other option for heading south now is heading back out into Georgia Strait and the conditions aren’t right out there, no one wants to go there. This is the shortest route. This is the place that most all boaters go through and they all arrive at the same time whether they are headed north or south. Everyone is slowly beginning to jostle for position, getting into cue. The right of way goes to the boats that will be running with the current but at slack water it’s hard to tell who has the right a way. This should be interesting today because I’ve never seen so many boats wanting and waiting to go in. It will be fun to see how so many of us will all squeeze through and in what order. Will it be an orderly passage? Or will the sailboats go through with sails up making all other boats give the right away to them? Will boaters give way to those that arrived ahead and under power? Will there be the usual couple boats that will cut in? It will be interesting to see the whole thing.
To our right is another enormous pulp mill though not as billowy as the Campbell River one. There are just a few stacks with white, not brown, smoke coming out. They have enormous mountains of pulp nearby, some of it being loaded into barges. We’re surprised to see several Navy sentinels guarding the pulp mill. They are in fast Kodiaks with big out board motors and each has what looks like a mounted machine gun on a swivel base. They must be guarding the pulp mill. Why I wonder? We’ve counted four of them. We’ve never seen that before. The world is changing. Island Spirit is ahead of us. We’re wondering if he’s going to call a Securite on 16. There have been several radio calls trying to hail her but she’s not answering or listening. THE BIG SQUEEZE Well that big power boat that cut us off yesterday heading into Nanaimo is coming up alongside again, wonder if they are going to race and butt in like they did when we came into Nanaimo Harbor last night? Hmmmm, they are out of Bainbridge Island, WA. Maybe you have been cut off too by them too as it seems they aren’t very courteous. She does it again today and rudely cuts us off. This is the second time in two days. What is the big rush anyway? I don’t get it. It looks the sailboats all took their sails down coming through. She cut several of them off too and slapped them with their big wake and their wake is huge. As we come out the other side her captain’s got himself stuck in the traffic and we somehow just passed them right by. I felt like the turtle and the hare. They stare and wave at us as we pass by. I don’t think they realize that they cut everybody off.
We hear “Log tow coming through Dodd Narrows” on the radio. I’ve never seen so many boats here going through Dodd Narrows. I counted 22 boats on the south side of Dodd. Suddenly there’s quite a bit of discussion on the radio. Some boats seem to be arguing about the barge coming through. We hear one boat telling another boat to wait so the barge behind him can come through. The other boat, a north bound boat, asks back if the barge is actually in the narrows yet (I guess thinking he could race through and beat it before it came through). The other guy answers back “No but is coming right behind him”. Finally to put an end to it, the barge calls on the radio and says he’s coming through and finally the north bound boat discouragingly answers “Rodger”, like he’s so disappointed that he’ll now to wait. Honestly what makes people act so goofy going through here? What’s the big rush? I know the tide will get stronger but there’s time enough for everybody. Maybe this is why the sailors don’t like power boaters like us up here? WAKING EVERYBODY Suddenly the Ocean Alexander and another power boat by her finally get out of their traffic trap and again sped by and cut in front of us one more time. Mmm, that’s three times now. This time they really put the peddle to the metal once they squeezed into an opening and just gunned it down the channel making the most incredible wakes you ever saw. We watched in a stupor and astonishment as their inconsiderate wakes caused the bottoms of several sailboats to come almost completely out of the water. Those poor sailboats did an incredible rocking horse show in the water riding over the wakes the power boats left. If they had any breakfast or coffee on their counters I’m sure it’s all on their galley floors or spilled all over themselves by now and much more. God these people are incredibly rude or they are oblivious and don’t realize what they are doing.
Well as we head south we see another pulp mill in the distance by Chemains. The smoke is puffing out and the leaving a gray haze across the sky. Wow, we are back to civilization if you could call it that. I haven’t felt this nervous since we left heading north the beginning of the summer. It’s a different kind of nervousness, an edgy nervousness, one that I haven’t felt in three months.
Suddenly we hear a boater on the radio to the Coast Guard. They say they have spotted a floating dead body in the water with a life jacket on. The CG has them change to channel 22 but then we can’t pick them up on the radio. We can’t hear them now, as they must be out of range, so we didn’t get the location or details. That was awful. We wonder where they sighted the body. We listen for a long time but nothing comes back. Well, decided to forget all this stuff and have some eggs and pancakes for a treat. CRAZY NAMES We can’t believe all the crazy chatter on the radio and some of the boat names are ridiculous, like: Diarrhea, Sucker, and Breakin’ Wind. They aren’t even funny, just sick names. Everybody steps all over each other on the radio down here.
The next amazing thing we see is a sailboat under power going by past us in the opposite direction, towing a dinghy on a long line with a small child in it (life jacket on) in these wake filled choppy seas!!! The child looked about 5 years old! Wow, if the Seaductress would go by he’d be thrown into the water with one swift wake! BODY FOUND NEAR ACTIVE PASS The Coast Guard came back on the radio again and this time reported finding a body somewhere near Active Pass and Tawasin on the Vancouver side, the Strait of Georgia side. They are requesting information on any found debris (I guess from a shipwreck) or other reports relating to the body. SO MANY BOATERS We’re getting ready to head down Houston Passage. It’s quite a shock boating down here now as there are boats everywhere, and coming every which way in all directions. It’s like playing one big pin ball game and you’re in the pin ball machine. BAM! THE SEAS GET ROUGH We come around the corner and bam the seas get rough. We take on the first spray we have since, well we can’t even remember, for weeks now. The seas are all stirred up, short steep waves about 4-5 feet. Everyone is rocking and slamming and splashing water up over their bows. The winds are blowing 30 knots on our nose and the current is going against us also. I guess we were in the protection of the islands before and who would think it would be so rough here? It’s so funny to just come around the corner and dive into a completely different scenario of conditions. Like I say, you never know up here. The radar looks like it has chicken pox there are so many boats out. GANGES We finally pull into Ganges. We love Ganges and it’s always fun to get here. It was just a sigh of relief. There’s so much to see and do. We settle in quickly and have a nice dinner out. This is just a short overnight stop. We could’ve gone to Van Isle but wanted one last night in Ganges. Tomorrow, we head back to Van Isle and see what the problem with the batteries is and then on to our next adventure to Tofino.
On to Ucluelet & Tonfio
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COURTNEY AND COMOX
DRIVE TO GOLD RIVER
UPANA CAVES
MV UCHUCK III
WORKING BOAT
TALE OF THE SAILING
VESSEL “BOSTON”
Chief Maquinna is also
said to be the name of the chief that met with Captain Cook on Cook’s
first stop in the Pacific Northwest. It was here in Nootka Sound in 1778
that he landed and which soon afterwards started a flood of European ships
to come here to the Pacific Northwest in search of riches in trade for sea
otter pelts. It was the beginning of the end at least for the poor sea
otters that were almost completely hunted to extinction in the period
following Cook’s first visit, amazing only in 20 to 30 year they were able
to do such incredible destruction. 
FRIENDLY COVE
There isn’t much here in
the way of a settlement any more. There are only two modest cottages now
built on the land where the native people used to have their summer
village. I read that only two of the native Muchalaht people live here
year around now in these cottages over looking the bay. At one time 1500
long houses resided here. The only other building besides the light house
buildings and these cottages is of course the quaint little white one room
Roman Catholic Church which was built originally in 1889. It was rebuilt
in 1956 exactly as it was originally built after it burned down sometime
before that. It’s perched nicely on a knoll overlooking the harbor and
the sea. There’s a small old
The shoreline is
beautiful and goes for as far as the eye can see in both directions and as
far as you can walk as there is a well maintained trail for you to follow
that we never reached the end. The waves that wash ashore make a strange
loud sound because the water is crashing against a shoreline of small
smooth pebbles not sand. Many of the people that got off Uchuck brought
picnic lunches and have by now scattered themselves along the shore to
have lunch and just take in the scenery of this special place. The rocky
tide line is filled with amazing tidal pools to explore too filled with
multi colored sea anemones and starfish. 
Just before departure
from Friendly Cove, we were lucky to see Uchuck pick up some
kayakers, an older couple in their late seventies, who paddled their
kayaks right up to the side of the boat.
Up-chuck. 
PERFECT ENDING
Larry comes inside after
stowing everything and takes over as we pass the low hillside of Campbell
River. We’ve been switching roles lately as my back has been bothering me
and especially in the morning so he’s been handling the fenders and lines
so I don’t strain it any more. The morning sun reflects brightly on the
square flat shapes of the buildings along the shore. The wide waters of
Discovery Channel are alive in a mass of swirls and boils, but it’s still
not the strongest yet, nothing like what it can be. We’ve seen it so
disturbed that it looks like a mass of big fish jumping and stirring the
water up creating big splashes when the opposite currents are jostling
with each other. It’s the strangest sight I’ve ever seen. We’ve got the
current on our nose this morning and in an hour or so the current will
change and take us with it. We’ll also have a nice NW wind following us
at least until the afternoon the winds pick up for the predicted small
craft warning. We’ll see how she rides. 
Up ahead looking out on
the amazing horizon that opens up to the wide expanse of Georgia Strait we
see a hearty little tug pulling three enormous loads and off to the left
is the silhouette of Cape Mudge. And if that sight isn’t enough to
fulfill all your wishes, off beyond the tug, is the enormous mountain
skyline of Vancouver Island as it stretches in the early morning sun way
down to its tippy toes. It’s the usual artist’s palette of varying shades
of grey but you can never tire of its unrelenting beauty. In the back of
us, the sky is tainted with the huge brown clouds pillowing out of
Campbell River’s pulp mill. They billow out in huge puffs and then catch
the wind and then stain the sky with brown streaks across Campbell River
and Discovery Channel. It’s not a pretty sight that’s for sure. 
We’re passing Cape Mudge
and Discovery Channel now opens to the wild Georgia Strait. There’s
always a bit of intimidation that lies in my heart about this great
expanse of water. You never know exactly what it’s going to throw you no
matter how careful you try to be. It’s a wide open area that provides a
bounty of opportunities for the sea devil to fetch up seas, currents and
strong winds. It’s a magnificent sight though as off to our left are
WILL WE BE BACK?
A few hours later we were
surprised to see a beautiful old wooden boat pull in to the dock behind.
It’s a beauty and all that well maintained lacquered wood is shimmering in
the afternoon light. They had a dickens of a time getting the old boat to
the dock though and tried several times and finally decided to turn the
boat around and back her in on the other side. The wind was still blowing
them off the dock and I guess the old boat didn’t have much strength
against the strong wind. They could barely keep her there long enough to
get the lines secure. They also had two very feisty Jack Russell’s on
board and they were cute as could be. They would hop and skip down the
dock and you couldn’t help laughing at them as they just took over. Ziggy
was very upset about the fact. 
GUARDS
AT THE PULP MILL
We
hear Island Spirit calling their Securite now. I guess he
figured he didn’t want to be part of what was going on during the “big
squeeze” because it was like a mad zoo going through there the way they
were all crowding and racing to get in front of each other. He must have
decided to wait and let them all go. 
FLOATING
DEAD BODY
WE
CAN’T BELIVE IT!
