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The weather was not the greatest but since reservations are reservations in this neck of the cruising world, off we went, headed for Edgartown. It was wet and choppy and not the best of days out on the ocean with guests but they were good sports. We had planned to stop in Vineyard Haven for lunch at The Black Dog Café but decided to pass because of the weather. Instead, we headed straight to Edgartown Harbor. We were assigned the same mooring ball that we had last week. This time though the harbor was much more crowded. The weather out look predicted showers for the next few days as a low was coming in. We heard a boater on the radio talking with Edgartown Harbor master. He was asking if he could extend his stay a day because of the weather but was denied because they were totally booked. He said he’d check back tomorrow to see if something opened up. Good thing Larry planned ahead with the reservations.
We
were dining at the Edgartown Yacht Club tonight.
We rented a car the next day. We decided to explore the island by car for the next two days as the weather was predicted to be a little wet. The is the first time Larry and I will be seeing the island by car. All the years coming here we never ventured from the seaport villages because everything we needed or wanted was right there. We were excited to see the interior of MV and go to the western end of the island to see Gay Head Cliffs. MV is only 5 miles off Cape Cod, not nearly as remote as Nantucket. It’s a small island in size, only about 10 miles wide and 20 miles long. Again, this place has been settled a long time going all the way back to 1600’s. I always loved MV because it was a little more real to me than Nantucket. It was also interesting because each of the villages on the island were so completely different from each other, each having their own unique character. TISBURY On the road out, our first stop was Tisbury. Once out of Edgartown, the scenery becomes very rural. It’s such a contrast to the crowded busy town of Edgartown. How they can survive the huge influx of people every summer on the island is beyond me. It’s got to be a real challenge for them. The town of Edgartown is just about bursting at the seams with the amount of people that walk the streets. It really can’t handle any more. I hope they can do something to preserve its historical character. It’s got to be tough to maintain the small town character with over 100,000 transient people coming to the island every summer. Wow.
AQUINNAH, FORMERLY GAY HEAD
CLIFFS
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Back in the car we headed on to
the far end of the island to see the Gay Head Cliffs. By the time we got there,
it was pouring rain but we covered up the best we could and ran up the road to
get a glimpse of them. The cliffs truly are a site to see even on this rain drenched day. The cliffs are multi colored red clay and make a stunning backdrop to the green brush covered hillside. But too much rain made for a short visit and back into the car in search of lunch and today that would be at the famous Black Dog Café in Vineyard Haven. BLACK DOG CAFÉ Now a household name, Black Dog Café has become a major enterprising machine. The restaurant is still like we remembered it, warm and cozy and good comfort food. As is the norm, you put your name in and wait but you have plenty to look at while you wait. It is situated right on the harbor dock with lots of interesting activity and boats to look at and also conveniently located nearby, are multiple stores selling every kind of merchandise that they could think up with the Black Dog logo on it, such as coffee cups, rugs, shirts, flags, blankets and the list goes on. For some reason everyone, ourselves included, love that black dog logo. After a hearty lunch we explored the main street of Vineyard Haven, making sure to check out Carly Simon’s store and other great houseware and gift shops.
We still had one more village we wanted our guests to see and that was Oak Bluffs. Oak Bluffs’ claim to fame is its wonderful gingerbread trimmed houses. Not much bigger than a doll houses but actually summer homes to real people. They are laid out over several acres, clustered closely, side by side, some with no roads but only quaint walking paths the follow the round circular parkland that surrounds the historic open air Tabernacle. These are all noteworthy historical buildings and unique in their own right. We have spent many summers picnicking on this very lawn listening to concerts under the evening glow of Japanese lanterns that decorate the surrounding Victorian cottages on Illumination night. Illumination night occurs only one night each summer and is never pre-announced except one week before so as to deter overcrowding. It’s a special evening if you happen to be lucky enough to time it right. The nearby town is very honky tonk, full of old fashioned arcades, bars, ice cream and fried fish stands. Oak Bluffs like every other place we visited today is unique onto itself, completely different from other parts of the island. It was a long day and time to head back. We took the beach route which is a lovely drive that takes you all the way back to Edgartown. There are many homes of the famous and rich on this island but they are discreetly located up long hidden unpretentious dirt roads. One drive looks like another. But Edgartown is another matter as we drove up and down some of the residential streets marveling at the wonderful homes and gardens bursting in color as the hydrangeas were multicolored and in full bloom. It's truly a beautiful place.
Our last night after two days of exploring this island ended with dinner at the Alchemy. Bernie and Bev took us, their son and new bride and their friends to dinner there. We had a great meal. It was a fun place and the food was innovative and delicious. We ended the evening by all walking to the local ice cream parlor and consuming more calories than we needed but boy that island made ice cream was good. We’ll always remember a great time here with good friends.
In the morning, Bev and Bernie left on a short commuter flight back to Boston and then the long flight home to California. It was a great visit and we’re glad they took the time to join us.
We sadly we left Edgartown probably for the last time. As we slowly motored our way out of the harbor, I took pictures as if it would capture my fondest feelings for this place. I tried to capsulate every moment in a camera lens and put in my pocket so I could revisit this place anytime I wanted. Of course, that’s impossible, but maybe some picture would stimulate a memory of how magical this place is. Edgartown is a magical place, preserved in time but threatened by over popularity. The island in fact is way overpopulated in the summer months when pleasure boaters and ferry riders invade this unique place. It’s busting at the seams. At times it seems almost weary, overwhelmed by the masses. As you walk the quaint and charming streets that were designed centuries ago for horses, carriages, fisherman and whalers, you are overwhelmed by the annoying fumes and loud running engines of the trucks, island buses and cars. And if that is not enough, the sidewalks are so filled with people like us, that it’s hard to walk down the street or even pass those that have stopped momentarily to gaze at the many shops. The sidewalks become crowded as people mill around the ice cream stores, licking their delicious creamy ice cream cones. You feel the need to keep moving or you’ll create a traffic jam. It’s almost sacrilegious this seasonal overpopulation. But I have to admire the town because it does not give in to the pressure of it all. They haven’t widened their streets, torn down any precious historical buildings or houses to pave the way for the masses by widening the streets, allowing in chain stores and malls, parking lots or building hideous condos or anything for that matter that resembles the ultimate bad taste of our century. And thank goodness for that! I hope that they somehow find some sort of solution soon as the preservation and enjoyment of this unique island is weary under the impact of the crowds. In just 10 years, since we were here last, there has been a noticeable overwhelming increase of people and the same goes for Nantucket. Two fantastically beautiful and unique places that I hope survive the future.
We maneuvered our way between the two very active ferries shuttling locals and many sightseers heading back and forth between Chappaquiddick. These little ferries are so busy all day long, trying to handle the load with the never ending line up of cars on each end waiting patiently for their turn. It keeps the pace slow and regulated no matter what. We make the turn heading out towards the lighthouse that is an icon of East coast island summers. It must be one of the most photographed, sketched and painted landmark on the East Coast. The site of the beautiful traditional sloops and picnic boats moored nearby its soft white sandy shores is a sight to behold. The water is calm today almost as if it’s gently kissing the white sandy shores where children are playing, adults are fishing and some hunting for shells. A few small sailboats are beached, part of a multitude of the same, that are beginning their sailing outing, a sailing class for young upcoming sailors. It is simply idealic. One last glance back to see the wonderful Harbor View Hotel, the town with its white painted houses and black shutters, the traditional grey weathered shingled houses and the crisp white church spires that project above it all….wow what a site! We relax back in our seats, adjust the chart plotter, getting our mind set for the very short trip to Vineyard Haven which is literally just a short hop, skip and jump from Edgartown Harbor. We’re coming out to the last marker before we make our turn and head between the shoals when we see the Coast Guard coming our way and before you know it they hail the “power boat, leaving Edgartown Channel, by the so and so marker, this is the Coast Guard on Channel 16”.
Well, it’s our lucky day or unlucky day, depends on how you look at it. A few weeks ago we saw them boarding an old fishing boat from South Carolina and today was our day. It wasn’t the Coast Guard Cutter but a smaller boat. We were asked to prepare for boarding so we put the boat in idle and stood by as they maneuvered their power boat up to our side. They jumped aboard in those big black boots and asked for some identification. They were a nice bunch of young men and we were glad to have them aboard. I was a little worried because I hadn’t made the bed below this morning and was hoping they weren’t going down there. Usually it’s made and things stowed when we get underway but it was such a short trip today, I just didn’t get around to it. Just my luck! They asked for identification and Larry handed them our passports. They kind of looked at them like they didn’t know what to do with them which was a surprise to us. So we got out our drivers licenses and that seemed to satisfy them. Larry handed them his binder full of all the necessary information about the boat. It had all the info they would ever need in one complete packet. They didn’t check much beyond the number and location of fire extinguishers and the other regular stuff as I guess once aboard they saw everything was pretty well in order (except for the bed). And soon they were off again as I cringed watching their power boat come precariously close to the side of the boat in the swells. But these young guys are limber and climbed up on the top railing and jumped back on the boat to my amazement. No boarding from behind on the standard swim step like the Coast Guard in Costa Rica. We love the coast guard and all that they do and really welcomed them aboard.
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VINEYARD HAVEN Larry was lucky to get reservations at the Black Dog Wharf in Vineyard Haven. It took him several calls over several days or weeks to get the space as it’s a popular place and they were totally booked. I think the dock master just finally felt sorry for his many calls and just gave in. He said he’d squeeze us in somehow. He said he had 26 feet space on the dock and could tie us up there. He said the bow would have to hang out until another expected boat came in and then he would tie our bow to it its stern. We didn’t understand exactly what he meant but we were confident he would make it work. When we arrived, we really had our doubts about the space. It was on the side end of a T dock. The dock master had us back down onto the side of the side of the dock and when we got the beam stern close, he skillfully secured the stern and spring lines and then he doubled the length of the line from the bow and somehow tied that to the dock midway where the big power boat was going to be. I was kind of dumbfounded watching him maneuver the lines like an engineer. I didn’t understand how it all worked but it did. He explained that another 70 foot (or maybe it was 100’, I don’t remember) boat was coming in on the end of the T and when it does we’ll unleash the bow line and tie it to his stern. This was going to be interesting.
DOCKING AT BLACK DOG WHARF We really didn’t have much time to even get settled when the big power boat that was going on the end of the T was in view. The dock master undid our bow line and threw it to me. He said to have it handy to toss to the stern of other boat once they get her tied up to the dock. He said they will then tie our bow securely to their boat. We looked out the channel to see the boat that was coming in and to our amazement it was a beautiful wooden boat! We love these old wooden boats and were so excited that it would be docked right next to us. So, I stood on the bow of the boat with the bow lines tied together to double the length, ready to toss it to the other boat. Larry was at the back of the boat I think. The front half of our boat was literally hanging off the dock by more than half the length of our boat as the dock we were tied to was only 26 feet in length and we are 60 feet overall. The wooden boat motored down to the outside of the T on the opposite side of our dock, bow first, and just as he passed the top of the T, he stopped her and began to back her and turn along side of the T. He began backing her stern down into our direction to the exposed forward half of our boat. They had two dinghies tied to the stern of their boat that I think they forgot to move forward out of the way, so he is backing them down towards our boat. I was getting concerned because if those dinghies with their exposed motors and props back into us, there will be damage to our boat. I’m not sure where Larry is at
this point, but I dropped my line and tried to find him to tell him. When he
saw the situation he quickly got the boat pole and headed to the bow of our boat
with me. He was going to try to fend the dinghies off with the pole. I guess
the captain must have forgotten about the dinghies, we don’t know for sure. We
kept thinking someone would realize and move them but no one ever did. As he
backed down the dock towards us, he just couldn’t seem to get the boat in
position. I think he was afraid he was going to back into us and he kept
reversing the engines to go forward. He’d go forward and then back down
again. The dock master finally managed to get some lines tied the best he
could but the captain kept running his engines moving forward and backward and
each time creating this huge serge at the back of the boat which was literally
pushing us away from our end of the dock. We both looked at each other in shock
as our boat was about ready to pop our lines. He was pushing us with this great
force. The poor dock master is having a heck of a time trying to get this guy
tied up and all the time he is gunning the engines, he’s making the lines he
tied strained and then loose. Larry dropped the boat pole and ran into the
pilot house and turned the engines on and tries to push us back to the dock with
our bow thrusters before our lines pop. I guess to Larry the dinghies damaging
the boat were less of a priority now. The crew of two aboard the wooden boat
didn’t seem to have a clue as to the seriousness of the situation. One was
talking on her cell phone, doing nothing, instead of helping the captain and
telling him what’s going on. Larry was getting mad and finally was able to get someone to tell the captain to turn his engines off, and finally when that was done, things started to settle down a little but our lines were all stretched and we were just flopping on around on the side of the dock. I yelled at some guy on the dock that was helping the dock master. I told him they needed to get those dinghies away from our boat now. He looked over the side of the dock to see what I was talking about and then I saw his look of shock. He quickly yelled at the one crew girl that wasn’t on the cell phone, to move the dinghies. She just incredibly answered, “I’m busy, I can’t do that now.” So he just climbed right on their boat without their permission, untied them, and moved them forward. I’ve got to say, still at this point, the other crew woman is STILL doing nothing but talking on her cell phone all the while all this has been going on! We were able to get our lines secure and I was finally able to get to the front of the boat to throw the bow line. The crew on the wooden boat were no where to be found so I had to throw the bow line to the guy that moved the dinghies. He was still on their boat and he tied our line to their boat. Once all was done, the captain came on the dock, joking with the dock master. He seemed to be a nice friendly jovial guy. I don’t think he had a clue as to what had happened. I really don’t think his crew knew either. It was incredulous. Larry was pretty upset but didn’t say much because no damage was done. The dock master did his best considering what was going on.
Whew, once that was over, it was our lucky day as twenty wooden boats, including power and sail, real classics had a stopped over in Vineyard Haven. They were cruising the coast, as a flotilla, and stopping in many ports in the area. It was a site to see and we walked all over the harbor admiring them. Another beauty came in later in the day and docked the opposite side of the Belle. I’ve got to say, and I hope I’m not mistaken but the people on both of the wooden boats were a pretty snobby bunch. In the afternoon, the guests or owners arrived and climbed aboard and the two days we were there, no one said a friendly “hello” or “good morning” or had eye contact. I finally solidified my opinion when one night when the winds changed direction, the captain on the Belle, adjusted his lines, and in the process moved ours. In the morning, I could hardly get off the boat because it moved our boat as such that the dock post was right in the way of our only way off and new position of the boat moved our fender locations to where we had no buffer from the dock! Larry managed to get on the dock and was trying to retie us. The winds had picked up and he was having trouble. Even though I was in my pajamas I had to quickly try to help him by climbing onto the deck through the small dangerous opening left. He and I were scrambling on the dock trying to tie her and almost couldn’t do it because of the weight of the boat and winds. I hate to say this, but the crew and captain from the other wooden boat just sat on their boat watching, never offering to give a hand. To me, that was the last straw.
TIME TO GO Anyway, we loved the Black Dog Wharf and the dock master and the rest of the boaters there were friendly and down to earth. The town is great, and the wooden boats were a great sight to see but it was time to go and to meet our friends Tom and Cindy from Westport. We’re going to rendezvous in Cutty Hunk before we head north.
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They accept reciprocal
privileges in the dining room if you belong to a yacht club that is a member of
the United States Sailing Association. It’s cash up front for dinner when you
make reservations. The privileges include use of their dinghy dock and the
yacht club courtesy launch for two days. It’s a small turn of the century
building right on the dock in the center of everything with great views of the
harbor. We had a great dinner there and it was quiet and no hustle bustle like
the rest of the town. We had been looking forward to it all week. We’d always
wanted to go inside and having spent many summers watching on the sidelines at
their festivities, it was great to have the opportunity to enjoy it finally.
We stopped at Morning Glory
Farm. It’s a great farm store filled with locally grown produce, fresh
baked pies, and huge fresh slabs of Vermont Cheddar cheese. We picked up a few
items and headed to the small town of Tisbury nearby. We stopped at the small
general store in the center of the village that hasn’t changed a lick since the
day it was built. It had old sloped wooden floors and the inviting smell of
warm coffee brewing and fresh baked goods the moment you walk in the door. At
the top of that entry door is a sign, typical of the island way of talking, “If
you don’t see it, ask for it!” Bernie couldn’t help but see how much he weighed
on the antique scale on the old wooden porch out front. Just down the street in
the agricultural center building (which looks much like an old barn) was an
“antique flea market” and outside, the local farmer’s market. We wandered
through the old high ceiling building checking out the antiques and listening to
local gossip. It was really more of an excuse for the locals to gather and
visit I think than buy antiques. Outside we wandered through the stands of
their local farmer’s market. There was a bit of everything, such as fresh
squeezed wheat grass drinks sold by hippie bongo drumming fun loving people,
healthy looking fresh veggies, again from Morning Glory Farm, and lovely
homemade baked pies and breads. We bought a few items from the hand made soap
stand for gifts to take home. It was a mix of people and dogs here all
communing with each other and getting out from being cooped up with the rain.
Some were locals and others had their tell tale shirts and sweatshirts with the
Black Dog logo that immediately identified them as a visitor. The wet weather
didn’t keep anybody at home today.
The Aquinnah Lighthouse is visible from the road and
just below it to our surprise were several Indian souvenir stands for tourists.
This land has recently been officially turned over to the Wampanoag tribe and is
now declared the Aquinnah Native American Reservation. 
OAK BLUFFS
LAST NIGHT
We take our last glimpse at the
wonderful Edgartown Yacht Club as we make our way out. We loved that place and
I’m so grateful that they honor reciprocal privileges for Santa Barbara Yacht
Club because it was really a great experience having dinner there. We got a
little taste of what it is like to be a real local. Our evening there was
really special, quiet and cozy and food was delicious. 
COAST GUARD
The other was busy getting lines to the dock
master. I didn’t know what to do about those darn dinghies. I ran to the back
of the boat to see what was happening there and see if I can tell someone on the
dock what he’s doing to us with those engines and to get someone to pull their
dinghies forward away from our boat. As I go to the back of the boat, the
owners of the sailboat docked behind us are in a panic too. They are standing
on their bow and yelled to me that our boat was going to back into theirs.
Because of the thrust of the engines of the wooden boat, it was pushing our bow
way out off the dock and thus turning our stern, somehow backing it towards
their boat which was directly behind us. We were inches away from colliding
into each other. I got on the back swim step and grabbed their bow to push her
off. I had to now stay there to keep us off each other. 
WOODEN BOATS