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It was a fun stay in Vineyard Haven but it was time to go. The winds were blowing into the harbor and it was getting fairly exposed. We were heading back towards Cuttyhunk to rendezvous with Cindy and Tom, our friends from Westport. They were sailing over in their boat, Azore and we would spend a few days together there. We headed back down Vineyard Sound and through Quick’s Hole bringing us out into Buzzard’s Bay again. It was a short hop from there to the entrance to Cuttyhunk. Cuttyhunk is a special place located within a half day cruise from many land bases in the area but it still remains much as it was hundreds of years ago. It’s a popular stop over for cruisers and we had heard a rumor that some yacht club flotilla was going there and if that was the case we had a slim chance of getting a mooring inside the harbor. We weren’t looking forward to spending our time there on a mooring outside of the channel. We could see the small cluster of houses on the grassy hills of Cuttyhunk ahead. We began to make our approach but noticed three sailboats coming out of the long narrow channel. We didn’t think there was enough width for us and the other boats to pass safely in the channel so Larry made a circle away from the entrance and waited for them to come out. Once they went by, we slowly went in and one of the boaters yelled as we went by that there was plenty of depth inside. He must have read our minds as we were cautiously watching the depth sounder. It’s a very narrow entrance with sandy shores shoaling into the channel but it is obviously clearly dredged and had no problems. We were lucky to find a mooring open just inside and picked it up without any trouble. We gave a call to Cindy and Tom on the radio. They were on their way crossing Buzzard’s Bay but said it was slow going with not much wind. We figured it would be awhile before they arrived, so we dropped the dinghy and went to shore to walk Ziggy and check out the place.
Even though Cuttyhunk is a short hop from the mainland and a heavily traveled course to Martha’s Vineyard, it remains intact, nothing changed. It has a remoteness about it. There’s a small dock where you can get fresh fish, lobster, and other shell fish and ice cream. They’ll even steam up a lobster for you. We ordered some for steamed lobsters for tonight and would be back later to pick them up. Cuttyhunk looked exactly the same as we remembered it from 10 years ago. What a nice relief. The main mode of transportation is golf carts, not the quiet ones but the gas run ones that putter. We walked up the hill past the lagoon and came to the only junction of small roads they have. You can turn left to head out towards the channel and beach, or straight up the hill in the direction of Martha’s Vineyard where several houses are and the one and only restaurant, and small bakery and deli are, or you can turn to the right, which is another small road leading up the hill and around the harbor to the small strand of beach that connects to the western shore of the island. We decided to head up the hill towards the bakery and restaurant. The small store and restaurant are inside what looks like people’s homes. All the signs are hand made and hand painted. We found a small table alongside the road with newspapers for sale, weighted down by a rock and the menu for this evening’s dinner. You leave money for the paper on the table “on your honor system”. We headed on up the hill. Most of the houses are modest and simple, except for one home that could be considered a mansion I guess. There’s nothing flamboyant about the island. It’s true grit. Not many people were around. Occasionally we’d wave at someone working in their yard or walking a child. What a contrast from the hustle and bustle of the nearby Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. We turned right heading up to the top of the hill for a better view. The road is lined with stone walls leading to nothing but an empty end where the road turns into dirt. It’s the oddest thing. William M. Wood of the American Woolen Company built it. It was going to be a road leading to the top where he was going to build a mansion but it never was completed. Now, it’s mostly used for walking or jogging and like us to get to the top for a view.
What a view it was up there. We could see the mainland of Massachusetts, and straight up Buzzard’s Bay, the Elizabeth Islands, Vineyard Haven, Martha’s Vineyard and Gay Head Cliffs and then turn and see in the direction of Block Island. We could see our anchorage and Knotty Dog. It’s a fantastic view. TOM & CINDY We headed back to the boat and were surprised to see Tom and Cindy on Azor, nicely settled on a mooring close by. Guess they got some wind after all. We spent a couple days together, good conversation, kayaking, and just sitting on the back of the boat and just enjoying the scenery of Cuttyhunk and good food. One afternoon, we went sailing on Azore. It was great! Ziggy and I rode out on the bow of the boat and were just mesmerized by the sea and views of the islands. Cindy and Tom even gave us a turn at the helm. I could get into this.
CHILLING OUT It was so pleasant to be here in Cuttyhunk that we decided to stay awhile longer. We just had been, going and going, and just wanted to chill out and enjoy the peace and quiet. We had a good mooring spot and there was a lot to watch. We had planned to link up with John Wolcott and Travis in Marion across Buzzard’s Bay on the mainland. John had invited us to join their yacht club for a flotilla going through the Cape Cod Canal to Providence Town and beyond, but we just really needed some rest. I was so looking forward to seeing them and doing that but sometimes you just need to take a break and we decided this was it. The next weeks were going to be non stop and more visitors coming so this was going to be our last quiet time for awhile. We really enjoyed the time. We loved watching the sailboat classes every morning and afternoon as they racing up and down the channel, fog, wind or sun, it didn’t matter. The little boats were so small only one or two small kids could accommodate them and their instructors really ran them ragged. We got tired just watching them. They sailed all over the harbor in perfect formation. We were totally impressed and I know they were having a ball because you could hear the screams of laughter. We watched a small plane fly in and swoop around the harbor and make a landing on the dirt strip along the channel. Tom had told us a commercial pilot owns the lonely house out the thin strip of land that divides the channel from Buzzards Bay to Vineyard Sound. He has his own landing strip and dock where he has a nifty fast sport fisher docked there. What a life that must be. Totally remote but beaches on both sides of his property and views of boats coming and going on both sides of the island. We walked the island each morning and afternoon. The beaches are beautiful and remote. We would see Alert, the only little commuter boat, or ferry as some call it, coming and going twice a day. Two of the classic wooden boats that we saw in Vineyard Haven came into the harbor and docked at the main dock. That would be Enticer and Belle.
Unfortunately, we had to get moving. Friends were coming in to meet us in Maine, and we wanted to get up to Boston to see our good buddy Greg before we headed farther north. So, tomorrow, we would have to leave this pristine spot and head up the Cape Cod Canal. We’re taking it slow, but enjoying the scenery along the way.
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CUTTYHUNK
At
the top are the remnants of an army bunker which intrigued Ziggy to no end. He
wanted to climb underneath and get into all the blocked up chambers. We had to
keep Ziggy on a short leash because of the ticks. This part of New England is
Lyme disease central and we didn’t want to take a chance on that. So
unfortunately, it would have been fun to let him finally run free out here, but
we couldn’t. We stayed to the cleared paths and roads where there is less
chance of getting exposed to the ticks. 
The
day they were to leave, the fog rolled in. Cindy gave a call to home to see if
Westport was socked in. Not yet, so they decided to get a jump on it. So we
said our goodbyes and watched as they headed out the foggy channel disappearing
into the mist. 
Each
afternoon, the Raw Boat would make its rounds. You could buy fresh, oysters,
clams, shrimp, and hot chowder. How could it be any better than this?