Up Mid Coast & Down East Boothbay Rockland Camden Castine Bucks Hbr- SW Hbr NE Hbr & Bar Hbr SW Hbr

 

VACATION YOURSELF TO DEATH


 

Aaaah, Boothbay!  Our first real Maine port, if you ask me.  It’s so beautiful!  It’s not remote and isolated but a real vacation town.  Everything is about vacation.  The place was filled with boats and lots of quaint little cottages, hotels, inns, restaurants, funky tourist boutiques, galleries and coffee and espresso cafés on each street.  There is nothing else to do here but just vacation yourself to death.  It’s old fashioned style vacation, you know, ice cream cones, old bowling alley, funky day boat excursion trips, t-shirt shops, goofy nick knacks, baked haddock on every menu and of course lobsters, lobsters, lobsters.  Good clean old fashioned fun and we loved it.  There is nothing serious here, just a place to totally enjoy yourself, walk around and look in the shops and eat.  We enjoyed it so much that we decided to stay a couple extra days. 

As we mentioned in the previous section, after we made our way here through an unbelievable, never ending, thick dense mine field of lobster pots…even in the harbor itself…even in the mooring field…even at the docks!......we found our marina, Boothbay Marina (who’s logo was a puffin) and pulled in.  An older couple ran the place, well really the woman ran the place.  The husband’s kind of lac-a-daze-icle kind of guy and she really did all the work and managed it.  He always acted like he was doing something but…well you get the picture. Our first night there, we were tucked into the dock up against these two story buildings on our bow and portside.  Not our favorite spot for looking out the windows but we were happy nevertheless.  A nice looking Fleming trawler was on the outer dock and we envyingly longed to be there.  But, what’s not to like here? Hey, we’re just a few steps away from the center of town with everything you ever needed to just have some good wholesome family fun.  And the prices are significantly better too.  No longer are baseball caps $25 with the same engraved blocky lettering, that look the same from town to town, and the only thing different is the name of the home port.  Now the very same thing is $7.99! No kiddin’ and the only thing different is they say BOOTHBAY instead whatever place we’ve been south of here.  That goes for t-shirts and sweat shirts and you name it.  Now dinners out are in the $15-16 range not the $30-40 range.  Wow, some places in New England can add up after awhile.

Boothbay Photos

CLAM BAKE AT CABBAGE ISLAND

We just loved Boothbay.  It was crowded with fun loving people just out having a nice vacation.  The docks for the day excursion boats were packed, every day.  Many were signing up for the clam bake cruise to Cabbage Island.  Each day we watched as the boat was loaded beyond what we thought would be safe limits, you know, loaded to the gills with people going on that trip.  We would watch in amazement how many would come and go off that boat everyday.  It would be so crowded there was “not a square inch to spare” on the boat.  The boat had a funny list to it.  It kind of leaned to the right or left depending where the load of people were standing.  It also rode precariously low to the water.  We sometimes thought it looked a little unsafe but that didn’t hinder anyone from getting on the boat and having a great time.  The excursion included a cruise of the Boothbay Harbor and then a stop off at Cabbage Island for a traditional Maine Clam Bake which included sea weed steamed lobsters (2 per person), corn on the cob, clams, and potatoes.  That could tempt me too. Imagine having two of your very own delicious lobsters to eat?

Some of the boats took people to Monhegan Island for the day.  We decided we wanted to stay on shore.  Why the heck would we pay someone to go out on a boat when that’s all we’ve been doing?  But we still longingly watched them come and go.  We also just enjoyed staying on the boat and watching the activity in the harbor and there was a lot to watch.  Several times a day LAZY JACK, an old sailing schooner, with a stealth-like black hull, would take a small group out.   There was another beautiful white hulled schooner that would take another group out several times a day.  They would launch those multi sails whether there was wind or not.  Both boats ran the engines but the sails would be up giving their guests the full benefit of the experience.  I loved to watch them in the harbor crisscrossing through all the lobster pots. 

 

THE DEVIL IN PARADISE

I must say, our first night sleeping at the marina, was not pleasant.  We soon found out that the two story buildings that surrounded us, turned out to be a bar and pool hall that came alive with music and loud drunks at night.  The noise was awful and it would go on to all hours of the early morning.  The first day, during the day, the music they played was tolerable.  It was some reggae music and for some reason it didn’t bother me.  Larry was worried about it though and asked if it was going to bother me.  I said if it stays like that I’ll be OK.  But that night it changed.  The music got louder and the people got rowdier and soon the music turned from reggae to something that sounded like screaming and insane music.  It was the most awful stuff we’ve ever had to listen to, ever.  I had a fitful nights sleep and I kept dreaming that I was in the devil’s den and couldn’t escape.  This crazy bar just didn’t go with the nice little harbor and town.  The town seemed like such a nice wholesome family place.  This was out of character with all the cute little stores selling t-shirts, and nautical souvenirs and ice cream cones.  Larry has a hearing problem in one ear and fortunately for him could sleep on his good ear and totally block it out but for me the music blasted until 1:45 AM, then the drunks started yelling obscenities and asking why the bar was closing.  You get the picture.  It was terrible.   

So first thing in the morning, I told Larry, “We’ve got to get outta here.  We’ve got to find another place to dock”.  Then we noticed the Fleming had left its spot on the outer dock.  I said to Larry if we could just get that spot at least we’d be father away from the bar, could close our windows on that side of the boat so we’d wouldn’t hear them so bad and we’d have a wonderful unobstructed view of the harbor.  He asked the lady dock master if we could move out there explaining that the noise was too much for us.  She said sure, we could have that space.  I can’t imagine that she hasn’t had a few complaints before.  So we quickly moved Knotty Dog to the outer dock and were immediately at peace.  Now we had a great view of all that went on in the harbor and far enough away from that awful bar.  I must say, every night, it was like another culture came out of the wood work and went into that bar.  It was really indescribable how bad it was. 

Another night we were awakened by what sounded like a riot up on the street but I’m sure it was from the bar.  People were yelling and screaming.  There were sounds of glass breaking and that horrible devil band kept playing louder and louder. It sounded like utter chaos.  In my half sleepless state I was imagining them busting through the dock gate and stampeding onto the docks any minute.  These drunks sounded like a bunch of wild animals going crazy.  I eventually sort of dozed off back asleep and in my half sleep I dreamt that they had broken the gate, ran down the docks after us and we just barely escaped by dropping our lines into the water and powering away to safety in our boat.   Wow, what a nightmare.

FLOWERS ABOUND

In the morning though, you’d awake to the sounds of silence except for the sound of a laughing seagull and the low mutter of a lobster boat going heading out early in the morning.  It’s like the night never happened and you wondered if the horrible late night noise we heard was real. 

We walked the town looking at all the quaint shops, with whimsical signs, and fun window displays and window boxes filled with the most colorful flowers.  Flowers were everywhere, a mixture of colors and textures.  It was so beautiful and obviously the people that live here enjoy making their town a pleasant place to be. 

LIFE WITH WI FI

We walked past the quaint town library right in the center of town.  On their announcement board, it said “we have Wi Fi!”.  Who cares about books anymore?  It’s Wi Fi that matters.  Scatter about the front entrance and around the building, sitting on the lawn, leaning against a tree or the side of the building, and inside too, are the Wi Fi addicted.  It’s the modern day cyber space junky addicted to their lap tops.  They looked like zombies, completely oblivious to their surroundings, just glued to the screen of their laptop.  Were they reading email, writing home, staying in contact with the office, searching the web, buying something on Amazon.com, or searching for a good place to eat?  Who knows?   No one is reading a book, they are all sitting at the library tables looking at their open laptops.  My how this world has changed.

TOWN CONCERT

That night the library lawn turns into a gathering spot for the weekly town concert.  There was a small local band playing and everyone from all around was there, sitting on blankets and just enjoying the little band, and the warm summer evening.  Kids were having a great time and encouraged by the band conductor to take turns conducting the band for a few bars which was good fun entertainment for everybody. 

GOT MOOSE?

In Boothbay we had crossed some imaginary line which suddenly said Moose country.   They are everywhere, not the real ones of course, but stuffed ones, silk screened ones, sewn ones, wooden ones, etc.  They are on baseball caps, coffee cups, t-shirts, name plaques, logos for coffee shops,   just plain everywhere.  Got to have a moose.

BLUEBERRIES

Our first exposure to blueberries started in Maine, somewhere near Southport.  We were driving with Susie and Bud, who visited from Pasadena, CA. and we saw a roadside stand.  It was nothing more than a table and umbrella and a hand painted sign that said “Wild Blueberries For Sale”.  Well, we screeched to a halt, backed the car up, and gave it another look.  There was a couple there that looked like the famous painting with the old farming couple standing full frontal with the pitch fork in hand.  No expression, just plain folk.  We decided this was too good to be true.  The blueberries were the smallest blueberries I’ve ever seen but they were wild and fresh and hand picked by this couple.  Hey, can’t get that kind of thing in southern California.  The man said they picked every one of them and by the looks of how many were in each box that must have taken a long time.  We got to talking to them while they were carefully putting plastic over each box and securing the plastic with a rubber band.  He bluntly said that said he can’t stand blueberries which we thought was hilarious.  We bought 4 boxes which was an enormous amount of berries.  It must have taken them a long time to fill these four little boxes with all these little itsy bitsy blueberries.  They were so grateful for our money and gave us a big toothless smile as we left thinking about what a tough life they must have.  They were very sweet people and their image stayed with us throughout the day. 

When we got back to the boat, we spent hours picking out the small mini branches and twigs and leaves that managed to get into the mix.  Guess that’s the difference between the super market stuff, no leaves, rocks and branches.  They were delicious though like nothing we’ve ever eaten and we were hooked.  We made blueberry cobbler, put them on cereal, in salads and anything we could think of.  We didn’t waste one of them as we knew they were all hand picked by this couple.

That wasn’t the last we saw of blueberries though.  As we head farther north we see more and more blueberries.  You can pretty much be guaranteed that blueberries with be on the menu any where you go.  Everyone sells blueberries or blueberry pie, blueberry cobbler, blueberry jam, blueberry salad dressing, blueberry shakes, plates and cups with blueberries painted on them, whatever.  These blueberries are almost as important as the lobsters and they taste so good.

LOBSTER CO-OP AND POUNDS    Lobster Photos

Speaking of lobsters……..hey, they are everywhere and this town has lobster pounds galore.  For those that don’t know what a lobster pound is…it’s a place where people head to at all hours of the day to eat or buy steamed or fresh lobster to eat or take home to eat.  It’s the only thing on the menu except for what goes with lobster like boiled or steamed potatoes, corn, and steamed shellfish.  There are big bins filled with running water and just squirming with lobsters, all sizes.  They are waving their claws about but they aren’t dangerous as the claws are all held shut with rubber bands, so they just wave them at you like a fist and stare up at you with their little beady eyes.  I prefer not to look at them if I know I’m going to eat one.  Nearby is the big boiler or steamer and that’s where they go to get quickly steamed before you eat them.  Yum are they good.  Usually pounds are just big decks or yards filled with picnic tables where you eat them.  There’s nothing fancy, no silverware or china here.  It’s all paper and plastic. Usually there is a communal sink outside where everyone goes afterwards to wash up because if you thoroughly devour a lobster the way you’re supposed to you will be messy when you are done.  This clean up station has running water, soap and lots of paper towels.  There’s no mirror as it’s just a sink basin for cleaning up no primping allowed.  Everybody comes to the lobster pounds, young and old and no one that comes to Maine leaves Maine without at some point hitting a lobster pound and I think I’m safe to say more than once.  The prices are great too. 

OLD FASHIONED FUN

There’s lots of old fashioned fun here.  It doesn’t take a lot of sophisticated stuff here for people to have a good time.  The ice cream store was a popular stop with so many flavors of homemade ice cream you would be surprised.  Blueberry of course is one flavor.  There was a taffy making store and it was filled daily with people watching the taffy maker stretching out the sticky stuff beyond what you would ever think it could stretch to and then after it obtained the correct amount of stretchiness I guess, he put it in the machine to be cut and automatically wrapped in individual delicious bite sizes.  Next door was the most antique bowling alley I’ve ever encountered.  It was small too and the bowling balls were small and wooden.  It was really neat. 

MAINE BOAT SHOW      Boat Show Photos

Well, for weeks now we had noticed posters around advertising the Maine Boat Show.  They were even talking about it at Manchester By the Sea Yacht Club.  How could we miss it?  We had planned to be there with Knotty Dog during the show but since we decided to stay in Boothbay a few extra days we were going to miss it.  Now we thought we were going to miss out on an important Maine experience by not seeing the show.  So we found a rental car and hit the road for Rockland to see it.  Rockland was farther than we expected by car.  It looks close on the map but with all these peninsula fingers you end up driving quite a ways to get to another place on the coast which could be a much closer distance by boat but it was all interesting country.

NO DOGS ALLOWED AGAIN

It was a hot day and when we arrived in Rockland, where the Maine Boat Show was, we were hoping that Ziggy would be allowed in.  Sure enough, NO DOGS ALLOWED, although the boat show was having their annual World Championship Boatyard Dog Trials.  It’s an annual competition for the best dock dog, but No other Dogs Allowed!  How does that make any sense?  Well, we should’ve known better.  It was just too hot to leave Ziggy locked in a hot car even for a couple minutes nor did we want to leave him on the boat for a long lonely 12 hours with no way to go to the bathroom.  So we did what we do all the time with Ziggy, we took turns going into the boat show.  One would stay out with Ziggy while the other would go in alone and see what they could in a ½ half hours time and then we would trade until we felt we got to see the show.  Of course, you don’t really see the show because you are hurried and then there are events that you miss because you’ve got to go out again and relieve the person who is waiting.  What a bummer.  Fortunately, Rockland has a lot to offer so while Larry was in the show I had lots to explore in the little nearby downtown and was looking forward to coming here with the boat in a few days.  So knowing that, I didn’t want to explore it too thoroughly and then leave nothing to see when we were here with the boat.

WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP BOATYARD DOG TRIALS

I wanted so bad to see the World Championship Boatyard Dog Trials.  It sounded like so much fun.  They had a fun write up about it in the local paper.  The rules to enter were: 

  1. Either dog or handler must finish the contest completely soaked.

  2. Cheating is not only tolerated, but encouraged and

  3. There are no further rules. 

The events: 

  1. First the dogs face the Dockside Obstacle Course.  Dog and handler must negotiate a maze of lobster traps, piles of rope and other assorted dockside paraphernalia.  The fastest to complete the course is the winner of the event.

  2. Then on to the Dinghy-Hopping Trials, where the dog and handler must hop into and out of a very tipsy dinghy tethered to a float.  This event has a 3 minute limit to complete.

  3. The final event is the Group Stick-Chasing Contest.  Simply, the handler throws their stick and the first dog back to the dock with it wins that event.

  4. They also have to have a stupid pet trick.

 I loved the local write up the week before as the local rag interview contenders:

 

 MEET THE CONTESTANTSCover

1.                  Reigning Champion Boris Bearenauf, Newfoundland from Lamoine

“I am totally committed.  Lance Armstrong inspires me.  If he can do it, why can I?”

Boris, Chief Scrap-Wood Redistribution Officer, specializes in boat-blocking management, rope pulling and knot-typing services for Redfern Boatyard in Lamoine.  Despite a busy year as the 2002 World Champion Boatyard Dog, with the many pressing responsibilities that holding the prestigious Pup Cup entails, Boris has found time to train and to expand his repertoire. Boris “The Bean” is ready to match his new skills (and his enormous bulk) against all worthy opponents.

2.                  Jake Hart, Black Lab from South Portland

“I’m here for the second time to prove my worth!”

Known as the “King of the Roof” of Great Island Boatyard in Harpswell, this is Jake’s second attempt to win the Pup Cup.  As a competitor in 2003, it was noted that while he did not cheat shamelessly (a prerequisite for winning), he was a crowd favorite.  Jake is also a favorite at the brokerage-he works in the PR department entertaining the children while their parents discuss purchases.  Also know as the “Black Vac,” Jake, who has been known to wear a cape, fearlessly cleans “where no Hoover has dared to go.”

3.                  Sadie Kuchinski, Black Lab (etc.) from South Thomaston

“I am a discerning dog.  I know what I like, and I’m not afraid to go after it!”

Affectionately know as “Bonehead” this black lab mix is an official mascot at the Tenants Harbor Boatyard and at Rockport Marine.  She likes all sticks, the bigger and more attached to the tree the better, and LOVES stinky things.  A seasoned, salty dog, Sadie is expert at capturing many scents as perfume, including her latest: “Eau de Linseed Oil on Carhartt Pants.”  She longs for an opportunity to swim with her stick as the crowd chants, “Bonehead, Bonehead, Bonehead!”

4.                  Karmen Lane, German Shepard from Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

“I’ve shaken more water out of my coat than most of those other mutts have swum through!”

Karmen is a diver.  Whenever Bob of Spurs Marine in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., jumps overboard, she’s right behind him! She loves boating and has even been known to tie a clove hitch! (Watch out Boris, this girl is serious!) Karmen’s other profession, besides being a Boatyard Dog, is a therapy dog.  Furthermore, she is familiar with competition and holds not a few obedience titles.  She has been keenly following the Boat Yard Dog Trials since the beginning, and is ready to take on whatever the competition throws at her.

5.                  Tyler MacMillian, Chihuahua from Rockland

“Put me up against the rest, ‘cause I am the best!”

Tyler, born and raised right here in Maine, is the guard dog for Knight Marine Service in Rockland.  Always first in line for donuts at break time, Tyler is also the first to demonstrate proper boating safety.  He wears a life jacket at all times when working on the water, and sets an exemplary model for two and four footed beings alike.  He always eats lunch with the crew; they know that his favorite food is pizza.  Small but mighty, he’s ready to show those bigger dogs what he’s made of!”

6.                  Soldado Woollett, “Culebrense” from South Thomaston

“I’ve been a Captain in the Puerto Rican Navy-I’m ready fro anything!”

Capt. Soldado originally hails from Culebra, Puerto Rico, but now lives in Maine where she helps run a seafood store.  The Maine climate hasn’t doused this southern senorita’s warm and joyful personality one bit, at least, not yet.  (Her wool sweater helps.)  Along with her sea duties, Soldado is the strategic bone burier for her family, and also keeps busy protecting her pet cat and her pet rabbit.  Yet still she finds time to study ballet and to maintain her multilingual capabilities.  She is looking forward to showing off her many talents, possibly barking in Spanish for the edification of the other dogs.

 Anyway, the article was a kick, you get the picture and we were hooked.  It was a shame that because Ziggy couldn’t come in, we missed it.  Don’t know who won.

 

The Maine Boat Show looked like a lot of fun and we each had as much fun as we could taking turns and walking around by ourselves.  There were all sorts of lobster style picnic boats, and wonderful wooden kayaks, and canoes, music, food, and stalls filled with anything that slightly resembled a nautical theme.  Check out this website for details:

 http://www.steppinoutmaine.com/archives/2004/aug_11/feature_frame.html

 We didn’t stay long obviously with the Ziggy factor so hit a few towns driving back.  It was a great day and we enjoyed seeing a little of the countryside that Maine has to offer.  It was time to start thinking about heading out and next stop but by boat would be Rockland.    

 

On to Rockland by boat

Up Mid Coast & Down East Boothbay Rockland Camden Castine Bucks Hbr- SW Hbr NE Hbr & Bar Hbr SW Hbr