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click on small photos to enlarge
It’s a gorgeous day out, even the lobster pot field that we struggle to weave our way through out in the bay, looks beautiful with all its bright fluorescent colors. As we make our approach we see Curtis Island which marks the entrance to Camden. We wonder what it must have been like here in the 1600’s when Captain John Smith arrived. This little island was originally named Negro Island by him after his black cook who loved the island. The lighthouse was built later in 1835 then ordered by President Andrew Jackson. In 1934 Negro Island was renamed Curtis Island for Cyrus Curtis, publisher of the Saturday Evening Post and long time resident of Camden.
CAMDEN HARBOR Some describe Camden Harbor as beautiful and others call it “Grand Central Station”. We however, loved it both aspects of it. Larry wanted to recoup from all the traveling so we decided we’d settle in Camden for a whole, maybe a week. We fretted a little about what dock to try to get in. Not having been there before, we didn’t know what would be a good location and Larry finally decided to go to the Public Dock which I think turned out to be the best decision. It was the most interesting place we’ve ever docked, ever. I guess you could consider it “Grand Central Station” if what you were looking for was peace and quiet. To us it was busy and active during the day and would get quiet and peaceful at night. The breeze fluttered down the harbor keeping the air fresh and clean, and the boats here were quiet and not so smelly like the ones in Rockland. Don’t know why the exhaust from those boats was so stinky over there. We were amazed at the sights in Camden Harbor. Camden Harbor is the center for windjammer cruises. There was a non-stop flux of windjammers and schooners going in and out every day. People were coming and going all day long, many excited about their upcoming ride on a windjammer and they were still excited when they got off too, exclaiming it was a “trip of a life time”. We were just fixated by the whole thing.
CREW LOOK MUCH LIKE PIRATES
The crew or “kids”, as we called them, did all this tiring work with never a sour puss but most of time singing songs, laughing and kidding with each other. They were a fascinating bunch. They were strong, flamboyant and had a daring about them like pirates of days long past. The boys were dark tan and their beards and hair were scruffy. The women were hardy types, but there was a strange natural beauty in their strong bodies and they did equal work to any man. Some would sing sea songs as they labored. We’d watch as the tourists would come down the docks with their belongings excitedly anticipating their cruise. We had heard that these cruises are not really for the faint of heart because the lodgings are a bit rustic, much like camping, but the food is said to be “fabulous”.
NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED Other, smaller windjammers, like “Surprise” and “Olad” would go in and out of the harbor all day long, everyday, for 2-3 hour cruises. They were always full as were the bigger hammers. They really add vitality to this town and an influx of people which must be good for the local economy. To see these glorious ships out in Penobscot Bay in full sail is a sight beyond belief! It’s a sight we’ll not forget.
One day we were lucky to witness, from the view of our boat, a wedding on the town park overlooking the harbor in the most perfect of garden and picturesque harbor setting. The wedding party ended the ceremony by walking down the hillside to the harbor and boarded one of the historical schooners and sailed out the harbor waving to the crowd of cheering strangers on shore. The town was ecstatic as they went by. The whole scene just gave me the goose bumps.
GRAND CENTRAL STATION The public dock was great, even though boats were coming and going, on the hour, by hour, it was just a constant coming and going. It was a drop off point for a lot of people and was also the dinghy dock for those out there on the hook. It was an ever changing landscape of activity. We saw so many classic sailing yachts and gorgeous picnic boats. We just couldn’t believe it and all in one place. We could see every boat that came and went in the harbor too even if it didn’t stop.
WELL ORGANIZED FOR A SMALL SPACE The harbor is an interesting place. It’s well designed to get the maximum use out of its small space and to keep the traffic moving and organized with minimum amount of jam ups.
When approaching Camden Harbor you enter from Penobscot Bay, past the light and the three red markers. You head through a small opening or channel through a large mooring field in the outer harbor. When we arrived, we kind of hung out in the outer harbor by the lighthouse while we hailed the harbor master to see if he was ready for us. He called back and said there were some boats on the docks but he was trying to make room for us and asked us to be patient and hang out for a bit. A few minutes later, he hailed us to come on in. He said he made a spot for us.
COUNTER CLOCKWISE DIRECTION So, we slowly entered the channel in the mooring field which is clearly and precisely marked by red and green mooring like balls on each side. As we came in, a day sail windjammer was coming out. He gave us plenty of room as we passed each other in the channel. As we entered the harbor, we passed Wayfarer Boat Yard on our right and their bright blue boat travel mover. The traffic flow in the harbor functions in a strict counterclockwise direction. You enter on the right and come down all the way to the town docks and make a turn to the left and head out. In the center are small free floating docks with boats docked on each side. These docks are kept in a stationary position to keep them from swinging in the wind and current in this narrow small harbor. It’s a very organized and orderly place and it all makes really excellent common sense. The entire week that we stayed there, we never saw anyone go in the wrong direction so it’s proof that it all works.
GOOD JOB DOCKING LARRY As we came in, we headed down the harbor past Wayfarer and the Public Docks were located at the very end of the harbor. The dock master was a great guy and I ‘m sorry to say I can’t remember his name but he asked us to back the boat in. It was a narrow squeeze as we had to angle ourselves in, backing past the pointed bow of Olad, and around a picnic boat that was going to be in front of us. I was very nervous just looking at getting into this crowded place. And of course, our darn headsets went dead right as we were getting ready to back in so I was unable to help Larry at all by telling him how much room he had or anything for that matter but he did an amazing job. The dock master even said it’s a pleasure to see someone handle their boat so well. It was such a nice complement to receive. I felt proud of Larry and how he got Knotty Dog in there, with a darn strong current by the way, but he did it all on his own. Kind of made me realize how he’s come a long way in handling this boat.
THE DINGHY DOCK During our stay here we were right next to the dinghy dock so besides having the best of all worlds seeing the schooners and all that went on in the harbor, we watched the hundreds of boaters coming and going on their dinghies. Some of the dinghies were the typical rubber air filled ones but there were many that were wooden, old and beautifully made and cared for with loving care. One in particular was almost as interesting as the schooners and windjammers. It sat there next to our boat all week and finally an old guy came down the ramp one day, got in, and rowed it around the harbor for a couple hours. He said he comes once a week to just for the sheer pleasure of rowing in it and has been doing it for years. Off he went, almost as old as the boat but still rowing away. THE RAMP The ramp is another story in itself. It was everyone’s link to the town from the dock and was quite busy all the time. Up and down it went as the tides were very extreme. It gave us a changing view of everything. Half the day we’d be floating on our way up and half the day we’d be floating on our way down and we watched people coming and going on that ramp like an elevator. When we were up we’d face to face with all the people on the shore and when we’d be down we’d see the exposed granite bulkhead on shore behind us and boats that were now sitting sideways on mud bottoms. When the ramp was steep, people would hobble up and down carrying their supplies or luggage and then when it was flat they’d glide to and fro with no effort. It was comical as we kind of felt like we were on a see seen.
BRAVE HEART I suppose there is a bit of “brave heart” in all of us but we don’t always see it in these days and all the silliness that society gets into. There was kind of like this invisible geographical line here that cuts off the silliness….well, maybe I should say most of the silliness lets say. What I noticed here though was a group of people with an independent heart. It was a kind of independent stubborn way of thinking that I loved. They also had this unrelenting trust in human nature that you just don’t see anymore…at least, where I come from. THE MAINER Maybe I can best describe the Mainer by our experiences in one little café that we would go for breakfast and afternoon coffee. It was a cute little place, just an old pharmacy now converted into a little neighborhood café, with little wooden booths, a counter up front where you purchased you coffee and fresh baked pastries and way in the back was the open kitchen where you ordered prepared foods, like breakfast or lunch. If you wanted breakfast for example, you went to the back and ordered everything verbally with whoever would take your order. They never wrote the order down no matter how complicated. After giving them your order you then find a free table set your belongings down and go up to the front counter to buy your coffee and you can pay for your breakfast or meal with whomever was there. You just verbally told them what you had ordered, if you remember, and they ring it up and you pay for it. I asked the woman that seemed to run the place how that works because easily someone could leave without paying as there is no check and balance to make sure you paid. She simply smiled and shrugged her shoulders and simply said, “We trust people and we’ve never had a problem.” I was amazed because from where we’ve been and where we’re from, this would never work without someone taking advantage. It was so busy and hectic in here that it would be an easy thing to do. No one cheated though and I loved the fact that it worked.
ZIGGY A SEEING EYE DOG? The other amazing thing was that Ziggy was allowed inside. I couldn’t believe it. This was a nice place and a dining environment. What happened to all those rules about dogs and sanitation requirements? The first time we came here Larry waited outside while I came inside to get some coffee for us. It was raining out and they said “Why don’t you bring your dog in?” I couldn’t believe it. So, Ziggy came in everyday and would snuggle under our table were we ate. I asked one day how it is that Ziggy can come in and they said “As far as we are concerned, the minute Ziggy steps across the threshold, he’s considered a seeing eye dog”. I loved that! Now that is fighting the establishment. If they decide they want to do that, by God they are going to do it and they will get around what ever the rules are. Their personal freedom is their right. And that’s the Brave Heart of the Mainer.
PUT A FEW MORE LOBSTERS UNDER OUR BELTS We added a few more lobsters to our consumption list during our stay here in Camden. We liked the little lobster pound right near the dock. It was hard to resist walking by those big pots of steaming hot water without stopping in and ordering up a couple fresh lobstahs. We also ate several meals on the boat because we just had the best seat in town and sometimes the best food too. It was a struggle to stay away from the bakeries that seem to be around every nook and cranny here. They all looked delicious with their dripping blueberry pies and scones and a multitude of wonderful things.
A BEAUTIFULLY NATURAL HARBOR
The harbor is truly one of the most beautiful natural harbors in the world I’d say. Everyone seems to know beautiful Portofino, but Camden could rival it any day. At the inner most part of the harbor, the locals knowing long ago that this place was precious permanently preserved the natural setting by years installing a beautiful grass hilled park designed by Olmstead, the notable landscape architect of years gone by, the same talented guy who designed many notable and famous parks, such as Central Park in New York City and Boston Common, in Massachusetts.
I don’t Camden would be as beautiful without this park. You can sit and gaze at the harbor from the park common on one of the several garden benches and watch the most amazing sights as schooners and classic boats come in and out of the harbor none stop. One day we climbed Camden Mountain to get and overall view of the harbor, Penobscot Bay, Desert Island beyond and the waters that we would be cruising in the next few weeks. It was breathtaking in more ways than one as we kept climbing and climbing and precipice opening an even grander view. We never did make it to the very top because of the heat but we certainly were satisfied with what we saw.
CAMDEN VILLAGE Most everyday we took a walk with Ziggy up through the back streets of Camden and there we found the leftovers of another MBNA complex, now a collection of empty ghostlike buildings. They reconverted the old wool mill into the most fabulous corporate offices and left nothing undone at great expense I would imagine. Another failed project for MBNA but they certainly had high hopes. The ghostly structures and manicured grounds were great for Ziggy as he could run free though lots of beautiful areas to walk along the river and their manmade lake
We also found tucked back in side streets of Camden a great bookstore called The Owl and the Turtle. Don’t miss it if you come to Camden whether by boat or car. They welcomed Ziggy too which allowed us to take our time to browse and buy several good books. Camden is a wonderful harbor to kayak in but make sure as everywhere in Maine that you watch the tides. Ziggy and I kayaked out to the lighthouse island and back on slack tide. It gave us a close up view of the wonderful boats that fill this harbor and a waterside view of the beautiful houses on rocky ledge just outside the harbor.
FARMERS’ MARKET and RIDE ON BIKES TO ROCKLAND One day we rode our bikes to Rockland and stopped along the way at the local Farmers’ Market. It was a great little outdoor market in the church parking lot. There were lots of fresh local breads, lovely produce, and home made cheeses. The best thing was the tasting tent right in the center and that’s where all the vendors had their wares available for tasting. Most people thought it was a free smorgasbord and loaded their plates up like it was a country picnic. An abundance of blueberries were everywhere. It was mostly a gathering place and lots of fun for the locals as most farmers’ markets are.
OREO COOKIE COWS We peddled further down the road which took us past beautiful pastures. We stopped alongside the famous Taldermere Farm and admired their Belted Galloway Cows. These are the black cows with big white bands around their stomachs and are familiarly called the Oreo Cookie cows.
ROCKLAND IS VERY PICTURESQUE TOO Rockland is an out of the way harbor with a few old buildings and the ruins of an old lime mill. The harbor is filled with the most wonderful little lobster boats and it’s so quiet and peaceful. There weren’t any tourist shops or restaurants only the beauty of the harbor to enjoy.
FRIDAY AT THE CAMDEN YACHT CLUB Friday is the day to go perch yourself out near the entrance to the harbor. The perfect vantage point is right on the lawn of the old Camden Yacht Club. You need to get yourself there around noon and all you have to do is be patient and you will be rewarded by the most magnificent parade of boats because that’s when all the schooners and windjammers to leave. It’s the most wonderful parade of magnificent boats you’ll ever see and it’s all free for the watching. You’ll see the friendly harbor master buzzing around in his little skiff making sure all is clear for ahead for the boats to head out. The schooners now are all are either motoring out if they’ve been refitted for modern day travel or those that aren’t are being pushed by a motorized skiff from behind or pulled by the same from the bow. It was truly a highlight of our trip in many ways and such a surprise. It’s been a great week here but time to move on. We need to head north or rather East as we have friends to meet in a couple weeks. We sadly hate to leave but know there must be more to see up this wonderful coast. We’ve enjoyed the people here so much as they love to come and talk to you if they see you on your boat and the people in the stores are so friendly and warm. We’ve truly loved our experience here and are really enjoying getting to know these Mainers.
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