EMAILS FROM OUR READERS
wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed your logs of your last cruise
through the Abacos. So many magazine articles play up the glorious beaches
and clear water, but very few people understand that a cruise can be
marred by constant high winds, tiresome biting no see-ums, and fellow
cruisers who behave badly or oddly. Your interesting logs depicted the
reality of cruising, good and bad. The return trip across the gulf stream
to Florida sounded like a real ordeal.
I cruised the Abacos in a chartered powerboat a few years ago, and just
got back from a week in rented cottage on Hopetown Harbor where I had a
center console powerboat available for the week. That was a great way to
do the Abacos – zip around in a fast center console during the day to
Guana, Man ‘O War, Little Harbor, Fowl Cay snorkeling and other fun sports
but be back in the cottage for long showers, A/C, good beds and ample
Henry E. Hall was my grandfather who worked at the
Manchester Yacht Club.
The launch was christened in 2003 and was attended by our family members.
Just found your web site and am enjoying it. Keep up the good work.
Ziggy says..that was a great place & we met some really
The Henry E Hall is the launch for the
I loved reading about your adventures around Green Turtle
Cay and the Bahamas. Your stories about boating life reminded me of sailing with my
Uncle on his 38ft Shannon (3 masts) in Lake Michigan. Being on a boat is a wonderful
You may have noticed a lot of stray dogs in GTC. There is a
rescue grouped called Potcake Rescue
www.potcakerescue.org that was formed to
spay/neuter and rescue those dogs to prevent further overpopulation. They are based
in Atlanta. We are going to have a spay/neuter clinic April 23, 24 on GTC. Since you
love Ziggy so much, I thought you would appreciate that somebody is doing something
about the homeless dogs in your beloved GTC.
The dogs are called Potcakes because in the old days, the
people would scrape off the burnt, caked food from the bottom of the cast iron pots
and give that to the dogs to eat.
It will be my first trip there and I am very excited. Thanks
for your colorful tales which help me prepare for what I will find!
I always enjoy reading your boating adventure website! Well
written, terrific photos, informative and a sense of fun!I've heard good things
about Sanibel and Captiva islands but I've never known anyone who has been to Boca
Grande on Gasparilla island.
Boca Grande looks terrific with it's older architecture, seashell beach and trails
under banyan trees. I'm glad to see it is still very picturesque even after
hurricane Charley in 2004 brought 150mph winds to the area! What fun to drive a
golf cart out to the beautiful lighthouse!
Some of your readers might find it interesting that Boca Grande was the place in
Forida that Katharine Hepburn liked to visit. Her chauffeur made the 3 day drive
down from NYC but once they were there Kate drove the golf cart. She spent several
days there in 1986 enjoying the warm weather and doing research at the local library
for a speech she would make in NYC honoring her mother (one of the founders of
It makes me smile to think of Katharine Hepburn age 79 driving a golf cart around
town and under the banyan trees out to the Boca Grande lighthouse!
Hello Larry and Jayne:
I just wanted to say I enjoyed your very nice photos and loved little Ziggy. He
must be very old by now if he still lives.
I am a dog lover and have many myself - though I lack the boat to have fun in.
It is nice to be able to find some healthy reading that simply spirits one away for
a little while to a different life than one can expect to find oneself. Thus I
thank you for the written word that permits this lifting of the spirit by a sharing
of your experiences.
Hope you still can sail during these times of hardship.
Happy voyage wherever you go,
RESPONDS..I am only 14 & still going strrong !
found your blog online and it caught my eye.
are going to cruise with another boater friend from Panama to Costa Rica Dec through
Feb. Any cruising info you can tell us about anchorages etc. would be great.
We'll be on a 50 DeFever power boat.
M/V El Capitan
When we made the trip we were in a hurry & and did not stop and smell the roses
enough. The log you found have all of the places we stopped, which were not many.
you have not found this cruising guide you should get it.
CRUISING PORTS: Florida to California via Panama
by Pat & John Rains
Capt Rains has done this trip many times & is well known along the way
Another book is:
The Panama Guide ..it by Nancy Sschwalbe Zidler & Tom Zidler
Hope you have a great trip..wish we were doing it again !!
Dan, glad you enjoyed the web stories. We stayed at the Barillas Yacht Club in El
Salvador and the plane belonged to the General Manager of the club. He just offered
the ride to us. Barillas is up a river & also where the President of El Salvador
keeps His boat.
Larry , Jayne & Ziggy
I like the story of your trip.
But I was wondering how you found someone to take you in the
airplane in El Salvador. Is there a way you could put me in contact with them.
Any details about it you could tell me would help.
Nous sommes Français et envisageons d'acheter un Nordhavn 57La photo prise entre les
collines, le matin, est-ce en Colombie britannique ?
Etes-vous satisfait de votre bateau ?
We are French and consider d' to buy Nordhavn 57
The photo catch between the hills in the morning this in British Columbia is?
Summers you satisfies your boat?
hey great site! I was looking for interesting spots in the
exumas, and you came up. we go the abacos a lot but would like to go further out,
are there fun local bars and such? I know you've heard it before, ziggy is damn
cute. yeah, we love our dogs.
We are in Elizabeth City now. This place is just like you
described in your log. It is wonderful!! The mayor and Sam came by today. The
mayor said for us to tell you hello for him. Boy is it nice to have some real grass
under my paws after four days on the boat.
Jayne & Larry,
A friend of ours just forwarded your comments about
MacDonald Bay (Exploring the North Coast of British Columbia) which
we'll put up on our website.
I checked your Knotty Dog website and realized that
we met a long time ago. Your new Knotty Dog III looks like a beauty. Is
she a 62'? Has she been launched or is she still in process?
Regarding those Sidebars: we write them, or have
others write them, because readers of our first editions wanted more of
that "stuff" and still do. In fact the editor of our latest Southeast
Alaska guidebook went a little overboard. We just can't please everyone!
Best regards to you both and have a good season,
Réanne Hemingway-Douglass & Don Douglass
I have been reading your blog and you gave me insight on crew
My wife and I are in the final phases of finally purchasing a boat (June) and
your honesty is sobering and will be read again several times when and if we
need to choose crew members
Jayne and Larry –
We have been following
your continued adventures on the new
Knotty Dog with great
interest, since you write so well and are writing about our home
cruising grounds. As a long time South Florida resident (God help me),
allow me to offer an apologia of sorts for the seemingly boorish
behavior of skippers down here when it comes to wake etiquette.
We (mostly) do know
better. The problem is that, in the interests of manatee conservation,
huge areas of the inshore waters are speed restricted to slow or idle
speed. Often the only area that is exempt is the ICW channel itself.
What this unfortunately does is cram every local who is wanting to get
somewhere in a reasonable amount of time in the same channel with anyone
who is restricted at all by draft and/or doesn’t have the local
knowledge to safely operate outside the marked channel (that is, most
Sad to say, the polite
habit of slowing down to give an easy pass for oncoming or overtaking
traffic is no more. The waterway is just so crowded, you would be
constantly speeding up and slowing down, speeding up and slowing down.
An already tough navigating task would become chaos, with boats
constantly changing speeds. So unfortunately, nobody slows down for
anybody, and it gets pretty rough out there.
My only advice is to
secure ship for an ICW run the same way you secure ship for a run
offshore, because you are gonna get bounced. In fact, on any halfway
decent day, Jayne and I prefer to run offshore, where at least we have
some elbow room. It’s a bummer, but it’s the modern reality down here.
Hope you are enjoying
your break from the action, and we will look for your posts this winter.
-Jonathan and Jayne
M/V Top Cat
Larry, Jayne and Ziggy,
enjoying your website and reading about your current adventures. I have
driven down to Key West but it must be particularly beautiful and
challenging to go by your own boat.
If you stop
in Islamorada you might want to check out the "World Wide Sportsman" store
and see the full size replica of Ernest Hemingway's boat "Pilar". We
have boating friends from Washington who went there a few years ago and
brought back pictures. The store is fun but seeing the "Pilar" replica
is impressive if you like classic boats or have an interest in Ernest
Hemingway or his novels.
"Hemingway Resource Center" on the internet has some additional info.
about the sister ship replica. It was built in 1933 and according to
legend Hemingway fished from the boat and
then decided to order one for himself. The replica on display was
also used in the film "Key Largo" with Bogart and Bacall.
have seen the Hemingway house in Key West but few of us will ever see the
actual "Pilar" boat as it is currently in Cuba.
Have a safe
Dear Ziggy and
parents Jayne and Larry:
A friend sent
me to your logs because she thought we shared similarities with you, and I
am enthralled reading them. Your writing is so immediate; I feel like I
am right there with you, and feel like I know all three of you as if we
were long time friends.
So let me
introduce us. I am Mike .... My wife is Bunny ..... Our seven year old
Corgi is Willie.
We live in
Atlanta, and have a place on St George island, out from Apalachicola on
the Panhandle of Florida’s west coast. I joined the Coast Guard Auxiliary
there and learned enormously. We chartered out of Anacortes in 2004, and
I learned that my CG training really did work; I could pilot and
navigate. We fell in love with the PNW, so much so that we wound up with
a Nordic Tug 37 in Anacortes. We are owned by our Corgi, Willie; and thus
we drive across the country (as you do, Jayne), rather than fly, when we
are ready to cruise, because I won’t put Willie down below on a plane, and
Bunny won’t leave him behind. (Neither will I.)
I had the
opportunity several years ago to crew from the Chesapeake down the ICW
across Lake O to the Fort Myers vicinity on, Karina, a Zimmerman 37 – a
wonderful Spencer Lincoln hull, that appears very similar to yours, owned
by a friend who lives on it in the winter at a wonderful small marina just
east of Fort Myers.
We have other
similarities, but that’s enough for starters – love our dogs and love
cruising— most of the other stuff seems pretty far down the list of
I saw Larry’s post
on the T&T list, asking about depths crossing Lake O. That caused me to
think that you might be planning to head up the Florida West Coast this
spring; if so we would love to meet you, if your schedule matches ours.
The Intra (as it is designated on the west side of Florida out to Texas)
Coastal Waterway goes through St. George Sound and Apalachicola Bay, which
are our Florida home waters. If you’d like to take a day or so off the
boat, we’d be tickled to have you stay with us. If schedules don’t work,
or if you’re reluctant to accept invitations totally out of the blue from
perfect strangers, at the least I hope that you will join us for a nice
And if you are
looking for local knowledge, I’d be delighted to advise, to the extent I
I look forward to
hearing from you. And I’ll be devouring your log from the Keys.
Ziggy says..Willie we love letters
We looked at the most recent video on your website. I don’t believe I
have ever seen a busier waterway. I would be really scared going through
something like that. Were you able to get any sleep? By the way, I
really enjoy reading about all these places you have gone to. You tell it
like it is and that is a good thing. How would anyone who has never been
there know what it was like, unless they were lucky enough to read your
website? I don’t think I would ever want to go to Ft. Lauderdale in a
ZIGGY Says: It quiets down after
about 9pm & even thought it is noisy, it is fun. The video is for effect.
written to you before, (Bob, Vicki and crew Rosie on Blue Moon,) and I
just can't restrain myself any longer! I grew up boating in Miami and Ft.
Lauderdale area. There are places where it is just like a shooting
gallery....(and sometimes I felt like I wanted to do the shooting!!) I
know the zoo that you are in! The traditional boater wave down there is
the middle-finger salute!
docks and pilings..... we have been up and down the east coast, NY and
Canadian canals etc. Fixed docks are a pain, but they are doable----
here's what we do---as always, feel free to disregard. When backing into a
slip with fixed pilings forward, we set up with two bowlines, a spring on
each side, and two stern lines. The bow lines and spring lines are set
with the loop end free, and the bitter end around the cleat, leaving a lot
of line free. (To be adjusted later.) I (Vicki) make a loop with the end
of the line, and, standing just aft of midships, drop the loop over the
forward piling, only when the piling is next to me, as Bob backs in. Ditto
other side. Bob is going slowly enough for me to do this. Depending upon
the state of the current etc., I then take the proper spring, and drop it
over the forward piling. Puling this spring keeps the stern away from the
dock. If no one is there to help, we are at least safe in the slip.
Usually, Bob steps off the boat onto the finger pier, (never jumps---
we've seen broken ankles and legs from that!) and I throw him the stern
lines-- first one on depends on the current. It's sometimes not pretty,
but it works! Most important-- no one gets off the boat until we are sure
that the boat is safe in the slip....then we finish making it fast.
with fixed pilings. Set up one bow line, and two spring lines on the dock
side, and two stern lines, one on each side. Bob puts the boat in, bow
first...Vicki just runs a line from the bow cleat, around the piling, and
back to the cleat. (Looks like I'm hugging the piling!) When I (Vicki)
pull this line tighter---(always run the line around one horn of the
cleat, then pull. The cleat gives you a mechanical advantage.) At this
point, the line is around the cleat in a circle, and both ends are on the
boat. Then Bob brings in the stern, and I take the stern line closest to
the dock and loop it around the piling. (Same as bow.) This aft line is a
temporary measure. Bob, or Vicki--- only one of us--- steps off the boat
and ties the first spring according to the current. Then we take the
outside stern line, and tie to the piling. Usually we try to get one a bit
further back behind the boat, to get a good angle. When we leave, we
remove all lines that are tied to the dock first, then the stern line. Bow
line is last to go off... remember it is only a loop. Bob turns on this
line, and backs the stern clear, then I slip the line off. Easy to do,
since it is not tied, just looped. (As an aside, when in a questionable
area, we often keep both ends of the line on the boat.... harder for
someone to mess with, (tall piling) and easier for a fast escape!) As
before--- no one off the boat until the boat is safe in the slip, then we
finish the tie-up.
I know this is
wordy, I wish I could show you! As I said--- feel free to disregard....
this is what works for us. I'm sure if we ever get over to the Pacific
coast, I'll be asking you how to tie up to a dock with no pilings, no
cleats, and a bull rail!! (I can't imagine... no kidding!)
more than enough from me.... we will be on the Chesapeake starting in
early May. Hope to meet you along the way!
Well a big
Hello to the crew of the Knotty Dog! I have been reading your progress
down the intercoastal. It must be a real challenge at times with all the
dredging and markers being moved. Hopefully the weather will be warmer,
can't believe how cold its been so far south! Happy belated Birthday to
Jayne. Three score and something? Haven't heard any more about Larry's eye
trouble. I hope that problem is taken care of? I had mixed feelings when I
read the young native Hiada girls e-mail. My thoughts wouldn't be
politically correct so I'll keep them to myself for the time being. By the
way I thought you gave an excellent response! Time to get busy, as
always may calm winds and fair seas be on your horizion. Lynn and Loretta
and the Gang. Happy Valentines Day to Everyone!
tell you how much I'm enjoying your Knottydog website. I'm sure glad Jack
gave us the address.
an avid boater/fisherman most of my life with all of the boats having been
used as a platform to bass fish from except for one, which was a sailboat
which happened to have been at the wrong time because along about that
period our kids were born and not being the type to leave Elaine home
while I went sailing, I sold it. We had taken a sailboat ride out of Bar
Harbor, Maine and I got hooked.
on the ICW are so interesting and have me sitting on the edge of my seat
white knuckling it during the shallow water runs. I was right with you and
Larry when you were squeezing by the dredger with not much water under
Back in the
50's, I happened to read an article in the Steubenville paper about a man
that had been a school teacher there and was retiring and he and his wife
were going to take their boat to Fla. down the ICW. I thought boy, would I
like to do that. After reading your logs of the trip, I wonder now if they
had a boat large enough to handle what they would encounter. After that I
never heard any more about them.
good stuff coming with your fantastic writing talent! I'll be waiting for
the next update. Dave
Dear Ziggy and Family –
I really enjoyed your Bahamas logs, which I stumbled across on a link from
the Great Loop cruising site. You capture both the joys and frustrations
of cruising the Bahamas, and we have been to many of the spots you wrote
so well about (we spent our honeymoon at Staniel Cay). My wife and I are I
guess what you’d call beginning cruisers – we have a little 26 foot
trailerable boat, and we live for summertime trips to the Bahamas –
summertime is best for small boats, winter is just too rough for us little
guys. We learn a lot from reading logs like yours, and we hope to move up
to a real cruising boat someday.
We have our logs from our trips at:
if you would like to check them out.
Thanks again for the armchair adventure,
Jonathan and Jayne xxxxxx (and dogs Mousse and Cha-Cha)
M/V Top Cat
Vero Beach, Florida
wanted to write and thank you for all the help and enjoyment my wife and I
have received from reading your many logs over the past few months.
I am a
lifelong sailor who bought a power boat two years ago as a concession to
advancing years and my wife Wendy's increasing difficulty with seasickness
on the Ocean. We have lived in St. Petersburg, Florida seasonally for the
last 7 years when not cruising on our 53 foot Beneteau, largely in the
Med. We brought that boat home to Florida a couple of years back and she
is too tall and too deep to cruise much down here. We also have come to
put more value in creature the comforts a power boat provides.
the power boat, a Bayliner 4788 pilothouse, with minimal experience in
power boats with the idea of doing the Loop starting last year. We joined
the AGLCA and made the trip up the ICW as far as Oxford, MD last year
where we just fell in love with that area. We wound up buying a second
house on the Tred Avon near Easton and now are sailing a fair bit on the
Chesapeake on our 30 foot Wylie catboat while we are getting more
experience in the power boat.
September we took a couple of weeks to visit Washington DC and in planning
for that trip found your log which we used as a guide for places to see
and to avoid. Since then I have read a great deal of your logs with much
pleasure. Our wakes have crossed many times. For example we kept
HOKULAE'A at Isle of Hope for almost two months into October of '07. I
admire your selection of the new boat and hope you have a great trip down
from your currentl location. The Lake is higher than it has been in years
and you should have an easy crossing.
again for all your great work in maintaining your blog.
RELATIVITY (Beneteau First 53f5)
S/V LUCKY DUCKY (Wyliecat 30)
M/V HOKULE'A (Bayliner 4788))
Responses to the
I think Natalie, the Haida Indian, really over reacted to Jayne’s
Wow~ My experiences with Native Americans have been
few, but of those few experiences, some have been awful. The individuals,
mostly in Northern CA, were VERY angry and racist. I don't know how I
would feel if I were native American, considering what they have been
through, but you can't help but think, "OK, I understand, now get over it.
Or at least don't exhibit the same racism that tormented you for so long."
Hope everything else is good.
We both read Larry's email which included your response to the Haida girl.
There is a very big chip on that little one's shoulder. Too bad that she
views life that way, though I guess I should not talk since I have not
ever been in a minority.......
Fran & Joe
My lord. I don't think there was a thing you could have said about them
that would not have been criticized.
I think the letter from the Haida girl is a wee
bit of sour grapes.
January 8th, 2009
I was very offended by your blog post about you visit to the Queen
Charlotte islands, as I am a girl who is full haida girl from Masset.
First I would like to inform you that the people from the Charlottes are
not “Indians” we are the haida people, natives if you must. Most first
nations people find it very offensive if you were ever to call them
Indians. Indians to me (as a first nations girl) are people that are from
“I think they should be called something more like Sea Rape and Sea
Devil””. If you really did your research you would have realized that
there are thousands and thousands of crabs in the haida gwaii seas. If you
had seen the thousands of crabs on the beach maybe just a week later you
would of saw them with no meat inside. Wildlife eats the dead crabs that
is left ashore by the fisherman. Most fisher men leave about ten crabs
there on purpose to give back to the wildlife.
I also didn’t appreciate that you posted up pictures of the deceased
graves and headstones. I don't think that the family of these people would
like that you did that. In a way its disrespectful
Your comment about how the “simple bracelet cost $3000” bothered me as
well. Do you know how long and hard it is to make a simple bracelet it
takes a lot of patience and skill. Just to get the bracelet to that shape
take weeks of work.
Also I don't think that elders would like that your husband was trying to
push over balance rock as it is a symbol of greatness as it is believed to
protect the Skitigate waters.
I was also unbelievably offended that you where “disappointed” in the
people of Masset and their living conditions. If you have traveled though
Masset a bit more you would of discovered new “modern” nice houses. And
not all of Masset if full of drunken Indians sitting around and loitering.
There are successful people in Masset.
What bothered me most of all was when you had mentioned that most of the
Haida culture was lost due to the small pox epidemic. Are you kidding me?
The Haida language is taught daily in school beginning when children go to
kindergarten. There are still Haida dance groups that sing traditional
songs and dances as our ancestors did. Many people are still carving totem
poles and jewelry. I personally know many, many people from Haida Gwaii
who weave for a living. Weaving clothing cedar cats red cedar baskets, and
making roses. I weave with my mother all the time( literally as much as I
can). My mother learned it from her mother who learned it from her mother
and so on and so forth. I'm only 17 and know so much about where im from.
I am in a traditional Haida dance group in Prince Rupert.. I paint Haida
designs my older brothers draws for me in First nations Art 12 in Prince
Rupert Secondary School. So I still know traditional things. Although you
had mentioned that it was lost. So guess I am “restoring pride and hope
for my people much like Bill Reid has done in recent years”.
So I pretty much want to say that Masset isn't as depressing as you made
it seen. I read your whole blog about your trip to the Queen Charlottes.
It made me mad although you did appreciate the scenery at some points.
Maybe you didn’t intend it to be but it did seem as though you were
racist. In many ways. My mother thought so as well.
Anyways your blog really disappointed me.
for reference this seems to be the log
DISAPPOINTMENT WAS MUTUAL
was disappointed to hear how you viewed our log that described our visit
to Queen Charlottes. Your reaction was completely opposite of what we
would have expected. You sound mad and resentful and I’m sorry you really
didn’t see our true feelings.
RACIST AND DISRESPECTFUL?
have called me a racist and said I am disrespectful. I really hope that I
can convince you that your impression is far from accurate. I will
address each comment and try to explain.
have great respect and admiration for the Haida people and also feel a
great sorrow for the sadness of your past most directly responsible by the
early visitations of the “white man” who unknowingly brought small pox
that decimated your population.
not in any way come away from your island with such negative impressions
as those that you have described nor do we wish that our comments to be
taken in such a negative way. If our comments were indeed hurtful we are
very sorry and sincerely apologize and hope that we can clear up an
QUEEN CHARLOTTES, A CHERISHED MEMORY
visit to the Queen Charlottes was a cherished experience personally rated
high above many other places that we have visited by boat or otherwise.
always considered the Haida people to be remarkable in so many aspects.
They are clearly artistically talented and creative and their mythological
stories passed down from generation to generation are insightful filled
with lessons we all could benefit and learn from. Their respect for
nature is something that if all people followed would make the world a
much better place. I readily admit that we have only scratched the
surface of learning about your culture but think we have a pretty good
Recently it has become politically correct to call native peoples and
different races by more popularly accepted descriptions or terms, such as
“Chicano”, “African American”, and “First Nations People.” Being a much
older person than yourself, a person who is used to a vocabulary that I
have used my whole life, a vocabulary that has also well served those that
came before me for many generations, but that has become to some like you
a vocabulary that is now considered unacceptable that must be changed, to
be replaced with words that honestly at times, seem very silly to me.
Many of these new words are quite a mouth full, many that I’m not very
comfortable with and many that do not flow easily from my mouth.
“DRUNKEN HAIDA PERSON?”
perhaps this explains why I use the word “Indian” in my description of
loiters in Masset. I used it without contempt, meanness or disrespect.
truthful, I would have felt very uncomfortable saying “drunken Haida
person” or “drunken First Nations Person”. It just wouldn’t flow easily
or comfortably from my mouth.
when I say the word “Indian” I don’t agree that people think I’m
describing people from India unless I’m speaking of a person from India in
the proper context and in this context I think it was quite obvious that I
from a generation too that doesn’t understand all the hype and accusations
of disrespect that are so popular now about calling popular sports teams
names like “The Indians” or “Red Skins”, even when used in the same
context with “Patriots” or “Chargers”. To require that they be changed now
after happily and respectfully being used for many years without
justifiable offense is mind boggling. I don’t understand nor do I follow
this popular notion of changing the world’s vocabulary for politically
sadly and sympathetically understand how a young impressionable person
like yourself, growing up in this new world of many changes, experiencing
a different education and upbringing than what we experienced, how that
you may think this word insulting. I think some of these politically
correct trends teach you to be offended by things that are not meant to
offend or to be taken as a misguided personal insult and it sadly becomes
a factor that divides people for all the wrong reasons. It’s a new world
it seems that we live in that tells you how to see and describe things
that we may not all agree with. So for this I am sorry, because you have
grown up in this new world and it has taught you to feel hurt and insulted
by my description which is not what I meant to do.
AN UNCOMMON PROBLEM
sorry to say that if there weren’t several drunken “characters” loitering
in your downtown area of Masset then perhaps this discussion would never
have surfaced. Please don’t take offense as this is a common sight in
many beautiful cities.
fact a city where we lived for several years, a beautiful city called
Santa Barbara, in California, has the same problem. There are loiterers
in many other beautiful cities too such as Seattle, WA, San Francisco, CA
and Victoria and Vancouver, in British Columbia and so on. The list of
cities is endless. In fact it is the rare city that doesn’t suffer
somewhat from this malady.
of these people are victims of mental illness but others abuse alcohol and
drugs. Their addiction and/or illness makes it difficult and for most
impossible to function productively in society. They are not able to keep
or get jobs and have no means to provide for themselves or maintain a
place to call home which leaves them no option but to loiter in public
hang out in our public parks where children play and on public streets
where they are in full view of tourists that come to see our city and like
us remark about it. We don’t take offense to their comments but
acknowledge the problem and work to make it better. No one likes or feels
comfortable when they see this.
could have chosen not to mention the problem but then I would not have
been honest describing the impressions of the places we visit. I am
however uncomfortable calling them “drunken Haida” or “drunken First
Nations People” no matter how you try to describe the problem.
WHERE DID YOUR LONG HOUSE TRADITIONS GO?
sorry that you were offended by my description of some of the houses in
Masset. I am sure as you pointed out that there are many nice houses in
Masset. The point I was trying to make but perhaps was not as carefully
worded as it should have been was to explain that I was saddened to see
the “Haida” that we saw living in these run down, un-cared for houses.
was no pride as many were trashed with windows broken and junk piled in
the yards and graffiti. It was surprising to see this because we were so
impressed with how the Haida used to live in their beautiful long houses.
The long houses were of such superb design providing not only beauty but
ingenuity allowing for mobility from summer to winter locations. They
were solidly built of massive lengths wood, precisely designed to be
joined together for stability but also to be easily dismantled for
mobility to another seasonal location. They were embellished with
exquisite decorative designs and yet provided a very functional design to
provide a style of living that unified family and clans living comfortably
in close quarters. This modern day version of living quarters that we saw
just seemed so incongruous with what we came to understand about the Haida.
people seemed sad and without pride in their houses. They were now forced
to live in these inferior modern cookie cutter houses that we see
everywhere in the world. Somehow I thought that the Haida would live in
structures that would reflect their proud heritage and be different from
our sad example of low cost modern day culture.
CULTURE NOT LOST
did not say your culture was lost by the epidemic of small pox. We see
your people’s brilliance flourishing everywhere. We know that a
Renaissance of spirit has been newly inspired by the deeds of Bill Reid.
We see the many accomplishments of the modern Haida as we attend, whenever
and where ever we can, the many festivals that celebrate your native
dances, stories, journeys, clothing, weavings, art and carvings.
merely trying to express and imagine the great loss that your people must
have suffered and the great loss the world unknowingly suffered from the
needless and tragic deaths of so many of your talented people that passed
away so quickly and unexpectedly from the devastation brought on by the
epidemic of small pox. I am glad you and your family and other Haida are
keeping up your traditions so we all can still enjoy them.
MASSES OF DEAD CRABS
very interested in the explanation you gave me of why there were masses of
dead crabs on your northern beaches. I never in a million years would
have thought that they were put there on purpose by the Haida fisherman.
You explain that is a traditional gesture of the fisherman to show their
appreciation for their bountiful catch by sharing some with the animals.
criticize me for my lack of research and knowledge of this tradition. I
have to say that I have no idea how I would’ve known that or where I
would’ve researched this information. No one that we talked to had an
explanation for it. I have read a lot about your people and your islands
and never did I find mention of this. Perhaps you shouldn’t expect
everyone to know all these things.
PRESERVING OUR BOUNTY
so, we still are and were astounded by the amount of dead crabs that we
saw on the shore. I do not agree that they were eaten and only empty
carcasses. To leave that many (and many that were undersized) on the
shores means there must have been hundreds of fishing boats to amount to
that offering and that would mean well more fishing boats than we could
ever imagine there should be.
Washington State we have restrictions on the size and quantity of crabs
that we can catch. All the small undersized crabs and females must be
returned alive to the sea to preserve the future reproduction and
sustainable population of the crabs.
concerned about the survival of wildlife and fish populations and their
well being. This is because man has proven over and over again to be
careless in regards to preservation. We also have serious concerns about
the condition of the waters we travel over and live by as we’ve seen some
pretty disgustingly polluted water.
first thought upon seeing the dead crabs was that something negative was
happening to the local environment. We wondered if the water was bad or
if the carcasses were the result of disease or just plain waste from
overfishing or perhaps even careless fishing.
think the idea of leaving this offering is a wonderful symbolic gesture
and again I applaud the Haida for their traditions and thoughtfulness. To
appreciate what one takes from nature by giving something back is an
honorable trait but maybe should we should question taking so much that
requires so much to be given back?
OVERFISHING, A LESSON TO BE LEARNED
can’t help but feel justified in our concern regarding over fishing and
our care for keeping a keen eye out for polluted water. I guess this
concern and perhaps disgust from what we sometimes see explains why some
disrespectful nicknames came to mind for the local crab boats we saw
coming and going incessantly from the harbor we were staying in. How
could any sea withstand the incessant amount of crabbing that we saw going
Fortunately Alaska and the Queen Charlottes still have an abundance of
salmon and other sea life to enjoy unlike many other places we have been
along America’s Coasts.
disappearing fish supply is becoming common place. In Puget Sound, where
we live, there are serious concerns about the disappearance of salmon due
to overfishing and contaminated waters and how it is effecting the
survival of many living things that depend on it for food including our
local and cherished Orcas.
British Columbia Coast shows serious signs of decline evidenced by the
mass of fish farms that are sprouting up in every corridor along their
are places that are in both our backyards and are cause for common
the Queen Charlottes and Alaska will quickly learn from the mistakes of
others, the over fishing and pollution of waters, so they will continue to
respect their waters to keep them clean and be conscious of the amount
they take so they can maintain a good balance. We want you to retain your
resources so you can always enjoy your present good quality of life.
There is a fragile limit to our natural resources if we are not careful.
PRIVACY OF THE DEAD
not realize that anyone would find it offensive to photograph the grave
markers as you said. There were no posted signs to mention this. I have
always had a great interest in cemeteries because it provides a glimpse
into people’s history and I have found that all grave markers tell a story
for the living to interpret, a story about the life of the person that
lies beneath hoping perhaps not to be forgotten
JEWELERY AND CRAFTS OVER PRICED?
the Haida jewelry and other Haida crafts are very expensive and do require
a tremendous amount of time to produce which does justify the high
prices. Sadly many just can’t afford to pay the price. I understand the
need to keep your arts and traditions alive and I’m grateful that there
are those that can afford to buy these artworks so that you can continue
your traditions. I would have loved to have purchased a piece of jewelry,
a woven good, or a carving for keeps sake as it would serve well as a
cherished reminder of or our visit to your islands.
STAY IN BALANCE WITH THE WORLD
would I have thought that the Haida people would have taken offense at
Larry having his picture taken playfully pretending to push over the
“Balance Rock”. I must ask. Have you really lost your sense of humor?
are way too serious and should lighten up a bit and see some fun in life.
Perhaps you should try to understand other cultures as we try to
understand and learn about yours. Maybe you should not be so demanding of
those that visit you, to demand that they know your culture in such
we expect the same from you if you visited our island? I don’t think so.
assume that we should know all of your traditions; that we should speak
using a changed vocabulary that you approve; to look at things your way,
not other ways, other views and also to not look at some things, nor
describe them nor photograph them.
admit that your comments make us feel unwelcome to a place where we
thought the people friendly and the landscape enchanting and the culture
unique and worthy.
words were never meant to be interpreted with the intent of malice nor did
we intend to express anything other than to describe clearly what we saw
and experienced. We came away from your islands with impressions of hope,
admiration and respect for your people.
please forgive us for any offense that we have caused you.
Ms Jayne and Larry,
I stumbled across your website today. I was
there for over an hour reading your stories and looking at the great
pictures you have shared.
I am a retired (06) Navy sailor of 20+
years. I currently work as a police officer at Kings Bay Submarine Naval
Base in S. Georgia. I am assigned to the High Value Asset escort team, we
provide armed patrol boat escort services for the submarine when they
enter and leave the Base here in Ga. I enjoyed your story of the exploding
windshield on the Protector. I too had a similar situation. I was
on a 27' patrol boat in Puerto Rico, we came off the top of a wave crest
into the trough and another wave washed over the whole boat, I was
standing at the Navigators table on the port side inside the cabin. I
looked up and all I saw was a wall of water, the windshield came out and
hit me. Luckily it came out in one piece and did not shatter as yours did.
I got a small scratch and almost had to change my "drawers" !
Anyways to the reason for my e-mail. I am
looking at replacing our old radar and GPS units on our patrol boats. The
old units are Raymarine, which I do not like. One of our other coxswains
is trying to sell me on the Garmin 5212 Touch screen system. My questions
are, which of these systems do you think would be easier to teach other
novice boaters? Ease of user interface. Our boats do in excess of 35kts,
but while doing actual escort duties we go 10-16kts. I would appreciate
any advise. Also would you know of any articles doing comparison
testing/evaluations of these units? Again Thanx
Traveling S in the ICW, at Kings Bay be
sure to take marker # 79 down your portside. I have been on the security
boat many days out there and seen more than one vessel take it on the
wrong side only to set there for several hours waiting for a tide shift.
Larry and Jayne,
I have visited your website for several months and have enjoyed reading
about your adventures. Norris Palmer told me about your site shortly after
you moved to San Juan Island. We have been friends with Norris and Karen
since they lived in Texas and had sailboats at the same marina. We have
visited them twice since they moved to SJ Island. My wife and I are
adopting a 10 year old boy next week that has been living with us for 2 ½
years as our foster child. He loves Washington and the ocean and we are
planning on moving to the Pacific NW in the next few years. Our goal is to
cruise to Alaska after Cody gets a little older so he can help out. So I
especially have enjoyed your logs about your Alaska trip.
Until then I will continue to read your logs about your experiences and
continue to make our plans. By the way, we have a Yorkshire terrier that
isn’t real fond of sailing so we will have a little bit of a break in
period for Oliver.
Bob, Claudia and Cody
Larry and Jane,
had just recently discovered your blog and was following your travels
aboard the new CCY. My interest in Nordhavn originally led me to your
website, although I must admit I've been undecided as to whether to buy
a big passagemaker or a Down East type of vessel. Your "unexpected"
suspension of your cruising plans leads me to hope all is well with
God's speed in your recovery if in fact you have had health issues.
look forward to following you cruises on the new CCY.
Hello Larry, Jayne and Ziggy,
Enjoy reading your "Knotty Dog" website.
Just wanted to say Get Well
I learned to sail in Seattle area from a man
named Jay Dawson at Everett Marina. He was from California and
retired to Washington on his sailboat. He lived alone and was an
independent type who never liked to bother anyone. He started having
the kind of eye problem you mentioned and called his doctor. The
receptionist told him the doctor wasn't able to see him until days
later. Unfortunately Jay was not proactive to get an appointment or go
to the emergency room. In less than a week he lost vision in one eye
that never came back despite taking 40mg Prednisone daily.
Glad to hear you saw an opthamologist right
away! It might be interesting to ask your eye doctor if being on the
water a lot (sunlight reflection, wind on the eyes, concentrating on
objects ahead) can promote the problem. I've only heard of this
condition twice and both people were active boaters. Perhaps wearing
glasses and a hat most of the time to limit sun and wind irritation
and taking regular breaks at the helm can help prevent reocurrences.
My people have been following your
people on your web site since you had your GB42MY. They think that
they saw a picture of your boat in Passagemaker Magazine years ago. My
name is Rosie (the brat dog,) my people have a GB42CL named "Blue
Moon" that we cruise. We also have land home in Melbourne, FL.
We would like you to know that we are
home in Melbourne now, and would love to meet you, and help in any way
we can. (Trips to the grocery store, or whatever.) In addition to my
folks wanting to meet your folks, I'd love to meet you, too. (Insert
heart picture here.)
My people have really loved your "no
holds barred" commentary. (They were going to sell "Blue Moon", but
the economy being in the (for us) forward deck, has made them realize
that they don't really want to give up cruising!) They so totally
understand your people needing another boat!! Cruising is next to
impossible to give up!
If you plan to stop in Melbourne, or
nearby, please e-mail at gb421009 (@) earthlink.net---- we three would
love to meet you!
Hoping to hear from you,
Rosie, the great dog, and Bob and
Vicki, my people
Ziggy responds: Rosie, glad you have
enjoyed the logs. Do not give up boating! Dad says we will be
in Melbourne late January or early February. Looking forward to
meeting you & you family.
Kathy and I sold our GB36 in SF Bay and bought a GB42 now in Sidney
BC. We plan to poke around the PNW this year and head north in 2009.
I enjoyed your site for your trip to AK. Great site!
In particular, I would like to respond to your comments on men taking
over. I will say up front that I couldn’t agree more. Kathy is the
driver and frequent docker of Penny Lane and this can cause
pandemonium on the docks when men see a woman heading for a slip –
pandemonium squared if their boats share the slip. We have to hide
the bow lines from “helpers”, and so on. But, as for guests, I have
the following observation. It is the role of the captain to hold a
meeting and assign jobs to the crew. Yes! Nicely tell those guests
who does what, how it will be done, and that the safety of the boat
depends of good old fashioned following orders. I go a step further
and ask for call and response. i.e. “Release the midship line.”
I have varying degrees of success. But, a charter guy watched my
drill once for a checkout and told me afterwards that he was impressed
mostly because so few people take the time to do this.
Thank you for all of your work.
- Hi there,
Love your site! Well
done!! Just thought I would mention two corrections.
St. Simons Island (not Simmons). and Savannah (not Savanna).
Still, what a wonderful site and wonderful cruises!
Captain Troup Nightingale
Thanks & I will try to fix soon
That Ziggy video was great! We've got a Jack Russell Terror and need
to get her trained before we move aboard. Poor Ziggy..
We loved the tethered ball idea, we'll need to remember that, what a
I really liked the way you have you're web site set up. I hope when I
retire to do something similar. When I was young I worked aboard a
square rigger and got a taste of the life moving from port to port.
Any way, I just had to drop you a line about you're Hudson river
entries. I am a big historical buff and love this area. I have
explored much of it on foot as well. At West Point you mention how the
British got past the second chain and eventually burned Kingston.
Actually, the British never got past Bear Mountain. They did take the
two forts on he West side of the river. (Ft Clinton and Ft
Montgomery). These were burned and eventually abandoned. You might
remember the story Benedict Arnold who tried to give the defense plans
for West Point to the British. He did not succeed, His contact was
captured in Verplank and Benedict escaped back to England. It is
really an interesting story. Any way, the British were stopped from
advancing any further up the river and they were defeated at Saratoga
in the north which stopped their southerly advance from Canada. The
colonials held the stretch of river between West Point and Kingston
throughout the war.
This was a very significant event in American history. The river
connection was vital to maintain contact between the colonies in the
north and the others in the south.
Sorry, we got caught up in the history
and assumed the British got past the chains. In looking at the dates,
Kingston was burned by the British in 1777 so it was a different time
http://www.ci.kingston.ny.us/History/British.html . Sorry about
Wow what adventures you have had! My name is Lara
and i live in a very small town in rural Idaho. I stumbled on your
website trying to look up someone we met while island hopping down in
the Bahamas, the Kentucky Colonel. We met the Colonel while anchored
out on Powell Cay and spent several days with him and that darling
little tug of his on Green Turtle waiting out a storm. We were there
in March of '03, neither my boyfriend nor I could remeber his real
name, only that he was from Anacortes and we just called him the
Colonel. We had him over for dinner several times and hit Pineapples
and the Sundowner with him a couple of times. Sadly so much rum was
involved as we were stuck there for a week the details are sketchy at
best! The boyfriend and I have since parted ways but we've always
wondered about the Colonel, wish you would have gotten more of a
chance to visit with him, great guy.
We bought an old 27' Albin trawler in Kingston NY
determined to go down the ICW to FL but only got as far as Atlantic
City before we turned around, December is not the ideal traviling
time! No heat on the boat, brrr! Not helped by the fact we were 29
and i knew nothing about boats being from a landlocked town of 400
people, my boyfriend not knowng a whole lot more. If you ever get to
Kingston look up Jeff's Yacht Haven, it's a run down old monster but
we couldn't have made as far as we did without owner Jeff Correa's
help, great guy. He would just shake his head and help us out in
everyway, we were the "Idaho Kids". We ended up getting into some
serious trouble off Ambrose Light when we lost power during a storm,
not a good first experience! I swore I'd never go out again,
however...you know how that goes.
We drug the boat down to FL and then all the way
back to Idaho, it was the talk of the town, there just aren't boats
that big here and that's small! The townfolk took to calling it the
S.S.Minnow. It went from here in Fairfield to NY again and then back
down to FL. Matt took it across from Ft Lauderdale to West End, I was
too scared to do the crossing. I flew into Freeport several weeks
later, some other friends of ours had driven to FL hauling the boat
and then gone across with him, they flew out the day before I got
I'm not even sure how we managed to do it, we're not
rich by any means, I had to stay home the first part of the trip to
make enough money to pay the rent while we were gone and we came home
BROKE with the credit cars maxed out. But i realized this was
probably the only chance in my life I would get to this so what the
heck. We couldn't afford to stay at the good marina on West End, we
stayed at the other one which actually closed down for the season.
There wasn't even hot water there, and the rates for a slip changed
daily depending on the mood of the guy in charge. Matt had been there
long enough to make friends with some of the locals, they finally quit
calling him "white boy" and they now called him "rocky
mountain". One was capt. Hugh and all the boys from the Shoal
Shaker, I wonder if they were still around when you guys were there.
At the time we were two of the three white people on West End and Matt
wouldn't let me go to bar or out by myself, he said the local boys
didn't look too kindly on "the rich touristas". Lord if they only
knew how broke we were and were going to be for quite some time to
We spent a couple days out at Sandy Cay, our
new Bahamian friends from Freeport met us out there and brought a huge
feast of local cuisine and lots of friends and family. We were all
high and dry when the tide went out so we stayed the night. Our boat
only drew 2ft of water so we had it pretty easy down there. We left
for the Abacos, had lunch of peanut butter and jelly at Mangrove Cay
and then anchored out at Great Sail, there were about 18 boats there
and we caught some huge barracutta on our way out the next morning.
I can't remember the name of the guide book we had
but we planned on staying at Murray's Esso in Cooperstown on the way
down, the weather was terrible and we could barely get to the docks
because the wind wasn't cooperating. It was a huge comedy of errs as
these things sometimes go, there is no more Murray's Esso, we heard
several stories on what happened and the giggles overtook us. We got
out of the wind across the way at Powell Cay and that's where we met
the Colonel. We thought our boat was small! So Matt jumped in the
dinghy and went to meet him.
We hooked up again in Green Turtle right before a
storm and ended up there for a week waiting for things to calm down.
It was fun at first but then we were just stuck there. We had no idea
how far Black Sound was and decided to walk there one hot afternoon,
thank heavens we got a golf cart ride from a nice guy going past then
he picked us up again for a ride home. We found that the black people
on Green Turtle were a lot nicer to us than the white folks. With the
exception of Sid from Sid's Grocery, he was appalled we were walking
into town to buy ice and he'd always give us a ride back so it
wouldn't melt. He told us where the public dinghy dock was and it
wasn't two nights later i fell right off it and lost a shoe. Some
crazy German guy we met caught it the next day. Good times.
The Colonel wanted us to go down to Marsh Harbor
with him but I had to get back to work, I'd already changed my ticket
once because of the front and somebody had to pay the bills. We'd
evidently worn out our welcome at West End, when we got back a couple
weeks later they were very unfriendly and they went from charging us
$10 a day to $50. The only thing we had there was a place to tie up
to anyway, no water, no power, everything was closed up so we said to
hell with it and went on to Freeport to our friends dock. Boy it was
plush! I flew back the next day and Matt took the boat back to FL.
He stored it there somewhere and our Bahamian friend found a buyer for
it a year or so later so Matt took it back across. I think it's in
Nassau last I heard.
It was fun to read about your trip and the places
we never got to. I remember reading about the pink sands and the
swimming pigs, I just couldn't imagine it. My gosh how do you find
time to do stuff writing so much! I've only read the Bahamas leg of
your journeys but look forward to reading about more of your
adventures. Thanks for sharing, talk about living the dream! Hope
things are well Lara
firstname.lastname@example.org Hanna's my dog! She would be terrible on a
boat, glad Ziggy enjoys it!
Larry & Jayne,
much enjoyed your site, especially your 2002 voyage up the BC coast. I
grew up on the BC north coast and once upon a time worked in several
of the old salmon canneries along the Inside Passage, including
Butedale when it was a thriving community in the 1950s. Several times,
you refer to Greenville Channel in your log. That should be Grenville
Channel, named by Capt. George Vancouver in 1793 after Baron
Grenville, a British politician.
According to your ship's log, about 1300 hours on May 31st, 2002, you
passed Holland Rock on your way into Prince Rupert Harbour. You had no
way of knowing of course, but on your port side as you approached
Holland Rock is Humpback Bay on Porcher Island, the site of an
abandoned salmon cannery. This facility canned for only four years in
the early 1930s, but served as a summer gillnet station for the next
35 years, before it was closed down in 1968. The Porcher Island
gillnet station and Butedale Cannery were both owned and operated by
the Canadian Fishing Company of Vancouver, BC, then a subsidiary of
the New England Fish Company of Boston and Seattle.
Gabriola Island, BC
stumbled across your travel adventure
details while searching for info on the Exumas. Quite a detailed log,
and it was entertaining.
I must comment however, that this is 2007,
and most of your racist comments towards the bahamians is
inappropriate. It should not be in the public domain, and you may
find yourself in some trouble. Stinky sportfishers with gensets
running 24/7 are fair game, however.!
ZIGGY Asks.. what racist comments?
Please lets us know what comments you are refering to.
Great web site! My stomping grounds are the Chesapeake, we keep our
boat in Deltaville, Va. Just wanted to thank you on the great site and
please don't tell anyone else about our favorite place Onancock. By
the way that "wreck" you saw on the bay is a firing range target for
the military. Glad it wasn't live fire day when you happened by.
Good morning! My name is Guy Puckett. I live in Los Angeles, and am
enamored by the Nordhavn 57. I have been delving into everything I
can get my hands on regarding cruising, in particular with Nordhavns.
I came across an excerpt in Circumnavigator magazine, and there was
reference to knottydog. I have since been visiting the site daily.
Thank you! I actually got up this morning with the intent to contact
you, to see if there were any crew positions coming up, but learned
that you have sold your yacht.
Serendipitiously I have been dreaming of crusing a Nordhavn 57 on the
same/similiar routes that you went on. Your site has been a wealth of
knowledge and again thank you.
If there is one piece of advice you could give regarding cruising,
what would it be. I am learning from your entries that life at sea is
not always a bowl of cherries.
I am 40 now, and plan to embark on my journey in 5 years. We will be
buying a sport cruiser in the interim to learn more about basic
boating principles. ( I grew up going to Catalina frequently on the
family boat... Is it realistic to think that in 5 years ( providing I
can fund the excursion and yacht) that I would be able to handle a 57
with my wife?
I noticed that you used professional captians frequently. Is it
possible to handle the 57 with you and your wife, of was it always
necessary to have a captain onboard?
Thanks for your time. Good luck in Washington. That new boat seems
like a reall pistol!
Thomas Loehr, my neighbor in Port Townsend,
directed me to your website. We are commercial fishermen based out of
Petersburg, Alaska, and for over 30 years have been steaming north and
south, looking wistfully out towards Haida Gwaii. Well, this year we did
it! We crossed Hecate Strait on April 1st, spent April 2nd on Sgan Gwaii,
and April 3rd on Hot Springs Island. The weather deteriorated, gale &
storm force winds. After midnight on April 7th, we continued up Hecate
Strait into Dixon Entrance.
We only had a couple of days to scan your log before our departure,
and it was quite helpful. I'm now reading it more thoroughly. Your
photos are wonderful! I'm ready to trade my wee digital camera for a
Canon body...I already have EF lenses. What type of camera do you use?
The attached photo is of our fishing vessel Monarch, anchored at
Gandle K'in, Hot Springs Island, on April 3, 2007.
Many thanks for sharing your adventures,
Came across your travel log recently
and enjoyed reading about your adventures. Nice to see so many good
As a veteran cruiser of the west
coast (B.C.) I was somewhat taken aback by your unbridled criticism of
You have to first of all understand
that any place on the coast that is only accessible via boat ( I know
they have their own airstrip but it's used strictly for private
aircraft), has countless challenges to overcome compared to
resort/villages/towns that are connected by road. All of the supplies
have to brought in by barge. It's difficult to recruit and retain
staff due to the remote location. Electrical problems occur from time
to time. The marina is extremely busy during the summer months
especially since they now have a fuel station and vastly improved
facilities. I can't understand your comment about "nothing much has
changed since 2002"!!! They've spent several million dollars on
improvements including the fuel station, new fishermen accommodation,
expanded stores, new fishing dock,etc.etc.
Shearwater and many other facilities
like it are not your typical California or Cape Cod holiday
destination. It's located in a wild and rugged part of the world. So
the restaurant wasn't to your satisfaction. What did you expect? A 5
star gourmet meal?
Yet, you raved about the pizza.
Figure that out.
Bottom line for cruisers like you, if
you can't tolerate facilities that aren't up to your standards of
perfection, don't go there and it'll give the rest of us some much
needed dock space.
By the way, the wharfinger was fired
a few days after your stay.
Don’t know if you read
the three logs of our visits to Shearwater? Maybe you just read one?
Because… we have certainly enjoyed our stops at Shearwater each time, so
hope you didn’t get the wrong impression. Anyway, we just put down our
thoughts and don’t get us wrong, we do like to stop there and of course
are very well aware of their remote location and understand the
challenges of being in a remote location. And no, of course we were not
expecting a 4 star restaurant either and actually liked the food we were
served and the people that served it. We actually liked Shearwater too
when it was rough around the edges and not so “sophisticated” as it is
today. We don’t particularly like the impression of having to make
reservations by cell phone and listen to a long list of option on their
recorded menu with numbers to punch. That certainly isn’t our cup of
tea. I’m sure though all the places north are changing rapidly too with
the new technology and more access. We are just sad sometimes to see
all the old ways slide away. Of course, our writings were only our
impressions of the few days we were there each time we visited.
Everyone has their own opinons and experiences which are specific to
themselves. We just try to be honest in our logs and always reflect
what we have experienced. Not everyone agrees with everything you have
to say and not everyone has the same experiences.
I’m sure we will return
to Shearwater many more times in the future. It’s a chance to get
together, eat in a restaurant, buy supplies and enjoy all the people we
meet each time we go there. I’m sure it will continue to change and we
will have even more different impressions in the future as it certainly
seems to be evolving and changing each time we go.
Thanks for your
- March 07
You said in one of your recent posts something like "But what can I do
when the problem is so large". This has been playing on my mind since
then, as there are lots of things we can do as individuals - use less
water, use less paper, use our cars more effectively and efficiently
(including buying smaller cars), buy from those companies that have good
environmental practices - eg in the supermarkets, and so on. If we all
start doing this, as the old English saying goes, "Many a mickle makes a
Then I came across this article by Meg Wheatley and thought that you
might enjoy it.
I have enjoyed reading your NW logs very much - good luck with what ever
you try next
- Re: Chesapeake advice?
24 February 2007 12:55
Larry, what a great site. Thanks for going to so much well placed
effort. I hope to cruise in the area (either by charter or my own boat
eventually) and this is the best sort of guide than anyone could ask
for. Thanks again.
hi ziggy and family
i am bailey, a 10 yo vizsla that has fun on a 18' lake boat in maine.
our camp is on a small private island (we are the only ones on it) and
although i am not much of a swimmer, i love being with my family of 5
and buzzing around on the boat.
my dad tony always has his nose in boat mags and loves the idea of
cruising on a nordhaven or grand banks
someday, but for now he has to keep it smaller.
i wanted to let you know the site is great. the movies are well
produced and all the adventures i've read so far seem
the one thing i would like to know is what larry and jayne did in
their previous life... what were their jobs, how did they start their
boating career, where did they originally live? etc.
i am the "silent partner" for my dad's small promotional and tee shirt
business. we live in massachusetts and visit maine year round,
although i like the summer the best.
thanks for a great site and keep the updates coming.
bailey and tony
Hi Bailey and Tony,
Hey, great to hear from you. I love Maine and would like to go back
there again. Your kind of life sounds really great, lots of land time
and free time to dive in the lake when you choose too. Maybe you get to
catch some fish to eat too? My parents really love those Maine boats
and are thinking about getting one when they downsize, they are going to
get one and cruise the canals and lakes and where ever else they can go
in a smaller boat that their bigger one won’t let them. They are really
sleek looking, especially those lobstah style boats and go fast too.
Well, I’m not sure exactly what Pop used to do except I think it was
something with mass storage in the computer business. Both mom and I
don’t understand any of it when he talks about it. It’s all mumbo jumbo
to us. He was always traveling all over the world to talk to people
about it and organize things and get sales teams going, and make the
team win from what we know. I know he loves computers because he is
always looking at the screen of one and researching something. Pretty
boring if you ask us.
Mom, on the other hand is completely different. I’m not sure what she
did either but she was always, working on her drafting table with
blueprints, and putting pieces of fabrics and materials together, and
paint chips, and drawing things. She doesn’t do that since her last
project 3 years ago, the one she completed right in the nick of time
before we left fro Panama. They are just enjoying life now and are
crazy nuts over boating but never had much experience with it before so
I think that’s why mom is always writing. I think it keeps her busy
when we are cruising or maybe from getting scared. She always need some
kind of project anyway, well Pop does too, and he always helps with the
technical computer stuff and well all the technical stuff ‘cause she
doesn’t get that part. I guess they make a great match.
Anyway, they treat me right and I have a good time. Great to hear from
you. Eat lots of lobstahs for me as we sure miss them on the West
I am a 14 year old Wheaton Terrier and I tolerate but don't love
sailing. I've been on the water since I was a pup and have not yet
managed to "use the mats" . My owners have kept me on the boat for a
couple of days at a time (back when I was 4 and 5 years old) but I
just held out waiting to be taken ashore. I am amazed that you waited
5 days (with understandable sneak accident) before learning to use the
My owners now plan to sail from Seattle to New York City leaving next
fall. I'm healthy.... but do you think I'm too old to train to the
boat? My other option is to go spend 9 months in Maine with my
"grandparents" but I'll miss my two "brothers" who are 8 and 10 year
old boys.... and they will miss me, too.
Thanks for your ideas! Baggywrinkles
Boy, I don’t envy you. Well, I do and
I don’t, I guess. I would love to be heading out again on a big
adventure knowing what I know now but I wouldn’t envy the lessons you
are going to have to learn along the way. I’m telling you right off the
bat that it will be the toughest thing you’ve ever done, both for you
and your parents. It was very stressful and very uncomfortable for all
Now let’s see, I don’t like to share my
age publicly because I look very good for my age and I like the girls to
think I’m a bit younger than I am but considering your predicament I’ll
tell you that I was 10 when I had to learn to do the unthinkable and
that was to do my business on the boat. Now, you being 14, I can’t say,
as everyone ages differently, just as my parents’ friends age
differently. Some of their friends who are healthy and able, are
talking about retirement homes and their aches and pains but others
wouldn’t think of planning their life around future retirement homes or
let some aches and pains consume their thoughts and conversations as
they are always heading off or planning some new wild adventure
(although knock on wood they have been lucky to be healthy and able to,
so they don’t like to waste anytime while the opportunity is good).
Everyone is different as of course as each dog is different.
Many people told my parents we were
lucky that I didn’t get an infection from holding it so long, though I
was just fine, but I would hate for you to have a problem like that.
From the address on your email it looks like your mom is a PhD, so maybe
she can bring along some constipation pills and antibiotics just in case
but maybe she has a PhD in nuclear science or Medieval History and then
I would definitely consult an expect, your vet. Even though I hate
going to any vet and always try to bite them while I’m there (never been
successful though), I’d consult them to see what they suggest for
medications and first aid things that should be brought along for you.
Boats always have first aid kits for humans and they should also have
meds and first aid stuff for the furry creatures as well, and that
includes, tick and flea prevention, and hot spot treatments for
uncontrolable itchy patches, bandages, first aid book for animals, and
whatever common sense tells you to take for what ever could come up,
even pain killers.
We terriers are pretty savy and are
quite a healthy bunch, evidenced by living a lot longer than some of our
other breeds so we are a lot tougher than the rest of our buddies,
especially the bigger guys, those poor old lumps, so I think we
definitely have an advantage.
Personally if I was you I would rather
like to give the trip a shot than to be away from my parents and two
brothers for 9 months even though you know the grandparents spoil us
with anything we want. Just think of all the adventures you would miss
if you don’t try, not to mention all the cuddles and fun play with your
brothers. And it’s always good to have a good watch dog on boats in
foreign countrys to protect or warn your family of anything unusual. I
nipped at a Mexican in Baja that was trying to board the boat and
Captain John Rains thought it was a good thing I did.
So, my recommendation is to think
positive and give it a try. If you are smart, which I know you are,
being a terrier, you can do it. The hardest part is just getting over
the hideous idea of it and convincing your family to endure the stress
of it. Always keep in the back of your furry head that once you’ve
mastered the task you will get rewarded with more kisses, hugs and
complements than you ever imagined and the admiration and respect from
other boaters is pretty good too and all for just doing a poop on the
poop deck. It’s just the weirdest thing.
Good luck and let us know how it goes
and how your adventures are going traveling on this wonderful trip you
will be taking. We’d love to hear about your experiences.
- Larry & Jayne,
I've very much enjoyed reading your log of travels aboard Knotty Dog and
hope to visit many or your ports of call aboard SHEARWATER (named for
the offshore bird, not the place you visited 1/9/07), our new N64, hull
Specifically, we are headed for the Bahamas mid-January and want to go
to Harbor Island (Dunmore town) via the same route you used (Ridley Head
entrance, Devil's Backbone). The guide books and maps I've consulted
suggest the water is very "thin"; however, I know you went there with
Knotty Dog and according to the Nordhavn web site your N57 draft (6' 8")
is identical to my design full load draft. I know you enjoyed Woody as
your pilot and I plan to try to use him as well.
My question is: did you have any "draft" problems during your passage?
Did you make a point to enter/leave at only high tide? Any "tips" you
Thanks for sharing your experience with us "new Nordies" via your log
Dear Mr. & Mrs. Hemmerich:
You have a great site! We own your Grand Banks
former Knotty Dog (now the Exuberant Fox - animals seem to rule),
which now is in a boat house on Lake Union awaiting boating
I looked into your wife's description of some of
the places we know well, such as Marsh Harbor, Hopetown,
Man-O-War, etc.. From time to time as I have speculated about
places to take the Fox, I thought "what about going to Hopetown?"
Her description of the anxieties associated with that shallow
water confirms my suspiciions, that it not a relaxed place to
cruise. We usually, in our half-dozen trips there, rent a skiff
with a big outboard (75 hp) and visit the harbors up to 50 miles
away, and last trip, visited Boat Harbor, at Marsh Harbor, on the
eastern side of the town. There are some big boats there - maybe
75', and some scream around at 20 kn. I suppose they have
skippers who know the depths by heart.
Well, your journals are great reading, great
- Dear Jayne and Larry,
strange, to write to
somebody whom you absolutely don't know....... Hm, after following
your logs for more than a year now I have the feeling to really know
you a little (also strange isn't it??) - must be your admirable
writing style, Jayne.
(Edited for personal reasons)
Anyway: Love your website and would like to send you a warm THANK
YOU out of cold and wintery Germany for
letting us share your great experience.
Best regards and a Happy New Year 2007,
My wife Cathy and I are in the early stages of planning our cruising
getaway. We current sail a Hans Christian 43 Ketch and live in the SF
Bay Area. I think we’ve come to a decision on which way to turn once
we leave the Golden Gate behind…….. It’s gonna be heading North!!
We’d like to take the Inside Passage and spend some time exploring the
area. We both came to the conclusion that we’d prefer the colder
climates that the hot and sticky.
Your site has provided a wealth of information and thanks for taking
the time to put it together.
We love our HC and it has proven to be an extremely seaworthy/kindly
boat. I’ve always told Cathy when the time comes that we can no
longer hoist sails and grind winches the boats that have always caught
my eyes are the Nordhavn’s!! We’d love to someday own a 46…used of
I apologize for being forward but I was wondering….what is the fuel
consumption (gal/hr) of your Nordhavn? On our HC we have a 75hp
Yanmar turbo and pushing 46,000 lbs @ ~6.5 she sips .75g/hr. I’d like
to run some numbers and see how that may affect our budget.
Thanks in advance for the info….. Look forward to someday meeting you
in our travels.
Dino & Cathy
Knotty Dog burns about 7ghp including gen set but
weighs 100,000+ pounds
I haven't had a chance to read
through all of it. I was doing a search on Rhinecliff-Kingston Bridge and came
upon your website. I was looking for an actual picture of the bridge. Anyway,
as I was looking through your site quickly, I noticed your dog Ziggy. Adorable
baby he is and I notice he is a Jack Russell Terrier! I own two, Butch and
Boots. One of the many places you have travelled was Rhinebeck, NY. There is a
wonderful woman who lives in Rhinebeck that has a refuge for unwanted Jack
Russell terriers. I thought you might be interested in knowing you couldn't
have been too far from her place since you were at the air museum. I am
including a link to her website in case you are interested: http://russellrefuge.org/
As I get more time I will certainly be reading
more on your site but I just thought it was really neat how a search I did on
bridges, led me to a Jack Russell terrier!!
Hi Ziggy and Ziggy's mother (Jayne),
Today is a rainy Sunday in Pennsylvania (11/12/06). As I get ready
for our trip to our other home in Gregorytown, Eleuthera I stumbled
on your Website while looking at Trawlers & Trawlering.
At first it was a laugh over Ziggy's PoopDeck...then I became
consumed with your Bahamas log. It is now midnite and I just left
Compass Qay with you after reading for four hours.
You brought out the essence of what makes the Bahamas our special
We first sailed there in 1985 on our first "Persuasion, (a 44' CSY
cutter rigged sloop) the vessel on which my kids learned to love
the Bahamas. Your description of the approach to Hopetown and
missing the boom; with Rudy Malone meeting you at the dock at Club
Solei is a dej a vu. I can still hear the sounds of my young adults
laughing as they try to make thier way across the harbor at midnite
in the dinghy after to many Kaliks.
As you worried yourself while Woody guided you toward the rocks at
Ridley Head beach we were watching boats like yours from that "our
beach" and digging coconut palms to replant
The gas station where you rented the car is my friend and you're
right about the road to Surfers Haven ...it makes no sense the
better road is the next one. You should not have given up on the
Surfers Beach...it is beautiful and the best surf on the East Coast
of America. It was only over the next hill!!
The old black guy sitting in front of the store is Bruno Thompson
the unofficial mayor of Gregorytown and the son of the patriach
George....one of the nicest people I have ever known.
I have sailed all over the Bahamas and Eleuthera is a jewel ...as
are the Berry Islands and the Exumas.
We bought our house in 1990 overlooking the Exuma Sound and the
Bight of Eleuthera.
Now 17 years later we still marvel at the undiscovered beaches and
coves and people.
We are now part of the community and have bonded with many thru
church and thru hurricanes and weddings and funerals.
We sit at Tippy's and marvel at the beauty but we can also sit on
our patio with Bahamian friends and watch the sunset.
We are just completing a two year retrofit of a 42' CHB sundeck
trawler also "Persuasion".
my goal is to finish what I started by exploring every Cay in Exuma
as well as Crooked Island and Long Island. You missed some nice
sailing in the bight of Eleuthera and the Berrys.
But you brought me great pleasure today with your chronicles even if
I didn't complete any chores for our upcoming trip.
Please come back to Eleuthera someday and I will show you that
Eleutherans are more friendly than you think.
And I agree ....the hamburger was awful and I doubt that Jimmy
Buffett would disagree.
Jayne...your chronicles are deserving of a place on the NYT best
seller list. I know they brought me joy today...you and Larry should
come visit us in Oleander Gardens in Gregorytown or look out for the
Persuasion somewhere near Compass Cay
Terry and Pat
I haven't had a chance to read through all of it.
I was doing a search on Rhinecliff-Kingston Bridge and came upon your website.
I was looking for an actual picture of the bridge. Anyway, as I was looking
through your site quickly, I noticed your dog Ziggy. Adorable baby he is and I
notice he is a Jack Russell Terrier! I own two, Butch and Boots. One of the
many places you have travelled was Rhinebeck, NY. There is a wonderful woman
who lives in Rhinebeck that has a refuge for unwanted Jack Russell terriers. I
thought you might be interested in knowing you couldn't have been too far from
her place since you were at the air museum. I am including a link to her
website in case you are interested: http://russellrefuge.org/
As I get more time I will certainly be reading more on your site but I just
thought it was really neat how a search I did on bridges, led me to a Jack
We recently had a very cringe-worthy stay at a marina..... and I would
not be surprised if somewhere on someone's website there is a similar
rant aimed directly at us. You see, we are guilty of running our
generator at the dock..... more than once. BUT, before you pee on our
leg and ban us from cruising in your neck of the woods, please allow me
Once was the night before we were due to leave on a passage. We were due
to leave at 4am and the marina office said they had no way of charging
us for the power we used overnight. They refused to allow us to unplug
and leave even though we asked them to charge our credit card. They
would not even allow us to leave a couple of bucks cash to cover it.
Unfortunately, our boat is a shockingly bad design from a circulation
point of view - and in the Virgin Islands in July, we had to run the
a/c..... this meant running the generator at the dock. We endured our
fair share of stares and glares!
The second time was also in the Virgins, at a marina that was unable to
supply us with adequate power. Their incoming power was running at less
than 100V and our sensitive systems just couldn't cope. We also had the
owner on board, so spending the night a tempo was not an option. Ditto
the air circulation, ditto the time of year and ditto the stares and
So, sometimes there is a valid reason - other than being too cheap to
pay for shore power!
Love the website and enjoy reading about all your travels. Happy
Dear Larry, Jayne and
Thank you for letting us ask you questions about Ziggy. You probably
don’t realize how much you have touched other people that have dogs, but
reading your logs have really put us at ease regarding the decision of
We currently own a 38’ Tiara, it is our first boat and she did a great
job of “testing the waters” to see if we would like it, which we do,
just not at that speed. Bart’s sister and husband have a 55’ Fleming,
“Kialoa” so when our Selene arrives we will be able to cruise together
in the San Juan Islands and Mexico. My husband, Bart has boated all of
his life with his family since he grew up in Newport Beach, but this is
new for me since I grew up and have lived in Idaho for the most part of
my life. We now live in La Quinta California and keep our boat in
Newport. Our trips consist of Harbor Cruising, trips to Dana Point and
trips to Catalina, all of which do not take much time and we immediately
take the dogs to shore when we arrive in Catalina, so we have never
experienced the BOB (Business on Board) issue.
I am sure there are more, but these questions are the ones we keep
How hard was it to get Ziggy to do his business on the boat and once he
got the hang of it, is he comfortable with it? What kind of “grass” do
you use and did you get a special “doggy set up”.
When it is rough seas, you are under way and Ziggy has to go, what do
When you are docked, do you still use the “side of the boat” or do you
take him off.
When you are under way, especially in the open ocean was there anything
special that you took into consideration regarding the timing of Ziggy’s
How old is Ziggy? How old was he when you started boating?
What type of dog credentials do you need when going to Canada? To
Mexico? Are you planning to go to Mexico this winter? If so, are there
any worries about taking Ziggy to Mexico?
I have included some photos of our “girls” who we have told them about
Ziggy. Jackie is the Black Jack Russell Terrier and Poodle, Bailey is
the Cockapoo Mix.
Thank you so much,
Bart, Sharon, Jackie and Bailey
I’m ten years old
and very set in my ways and I pride myself in being a very clean
upstanding dog. In fact I don’t even like to poop or pee in my own
yard but insist that I be taken to the beach or up to the field by
the Santa Barbara Mission, or other interesting places to do the
job. So when I heard the first time that I was going to have to go
on the boat I thought Larry and Jayne were nuts. There was no way I
was going to do that. I didn’t realize though that when we left San
Diego two years ago they were not going to stop the boat or go to
land for 5 DAYS. Yes, 5 days!!!! When we went to Alaska on our old
Grand Banks in 2002, they tried everything to make me go on the boat
but I just held out and refused. They tried grass in a big plastic
box but I just used it like a bed, they even tried to put a little
poop in it but then I just didn’t use it as a bed after that. No
way was I going to go on that boat. This new boat and trip was
We left San Diego
and for the first three days I could NOT believe that we didn’t stop
once. Mom and dad would take me out on the Portuguese walk (forward
deck area) where they put an astro turf door mat up in front of the
pilot house and also one down lower on the side towards the back.
They took me out there every hour, at least, (it was exhausting mom
says and stressful too worrying about me holding it so long)
and they told me over and over again to "GO POOPY!" I got sick of
hearing it over and over and over again. Even in rough seas they
took me out there and I listened to their ridiculous idea of going
poopy there. Who in the world would think to do their poopy there?
I just refused. I have to admit though I did have one little
accident and pee’d inside where I thought no one would see but they
found out and I felt bad because it was a brand new boat.
Surprisingly, I didn’t get punished at all. They just pointed to it
and said a big “NO” and took me immediately outside again and
pointed at those stupid astro turf mats saying "poopy and peepee".
The crew took the
soiled carpet out and washed it in a big tub of soapy water on the
cockpit as we continued down the Mexican coast, still not stopping
and it had to dry it out for a couple days. I felt bad because it
was a big mess to have that carpet hanging on all the chairs outside
and an embarrassing reminder of my mistake. I didn’t want to have
them go through that again so I just decided to hold it. I kept
asking them though if we were going to stop at some point with
pleading eyes, but their only answer was to just kept taking me out
on that darn deck and repeating that old phase. They just didn't
get it. I could tell everyone on board was up tight about me
holding it so long. Somehow after the fifth day, on my mom’s
birthday, I decided enough was enough and I'd surprise her with a
birthday present. I went outside and did number one on the forward
mat. You couldn’t believe the cheering and clapping the crew
did when they saw it. I thought they had lost their marbles and
then thought "Wow, if I had only known that I was going to be
rewarded for doing a bad thing I would have done it days ago!"
So, being the smart and intelligent dog that I am, I decided if I
get such a great reception doing number one, let’s see what happens
for number 2. So I went outside again, and did number 2 a few
minutes later on the mat on the side of the boat towards the back.
There was an even bigger cheering session from everyone and
congratulatory pats on the back. It was great. I also got lots of
hugs, scratches behind the ears and a tasty chicken strip which they
save for only very special tricks that I do. So once I realized
that I could get lots of cheers, pets and the really good tasty
doggie treats for doing something that I normally would consider
appalling, I just relieve myself when ever necessary on those mats
ever since. I prefer to do number one on one mat which they usually
put on the forward gangway and number 2 on the other mat which is on
the side of the boat. Sometimes it varies thought because Larry
forgets which mat is used for which and gets them mixed up so then I
have to adapt to the new location but normally it a smooth
operation. I still do hold out though if I think we will be in
port soon and the I make them take me to a proper place. I will not
go on the mats at port. That I absolutely refuse doing. I can
tell somehow by their attitude how long voyages are going to be,
etc. You know us dogs have to read these human’s minds as they
don’t know how to talk to dogs yet like we talk to them. I’ve
gotten a little “knotty” though lately and sometimes just go out on
those mats right after we leave port so I can get a tasty chicken
strip. It depends on how hungry I am. I still get rewarded and
patted but I can tell they think they have created a little monster.
My parents were in
a tizz ball once though because in some rough weather the mats blew
away out to sea never to be found again. They searched high and low
for new ones along the East Coast of American and
unbelievably couldn’t find the same kind for a long time.
We weren’t doing any big cruises so I didn’t really need them but
it's always nice to know they are there. Now they have a few spares
just in case they blow off again. They have to have spares also
because one other time when we were are dock they were washing them
really good and drying them on the dock and when we left, they
forgot and left them there. So, good idea to have spares. How do
we clean them? Well, we have a water hose outlet at the front of
the boat and Larry has hooked up a hose to it that reaches to the
areas where my mats are so once I go, Larry goes out,
tosses whatever is on the mat over the side and whatever I leave on
the deck gets hosed down the drain. I'm a good shot and usually get
the entire job on the mat though so the system works very well.
Usually when the
seas are really rough I just decide to hold it until the conditions
are to my liking. I know that I can hold it for a long time so I
just let them know when I’m ready. I always go to the door and tell
them I’d like to go out. Sometimes when they open the door, I look
out and I decide that I don’t like the waves and spray and don’t go
out. I'll just wait until later. After all I’m a very civilized
dog and I don’t like the salt spray on me while I go and I prefer a
You can’t say you
can’t teach an old dog new tricks ‘cause I’m proof of it, although
personally between the three of us terrier types, I think we are
much smarter and things come much easier for us. That’s not a
proven fact though and I’m sure other breeds feel the same about
Well, if you have
any more questions, just let me know. We will be going to Newport
sometime soon just for the fun of it so who knows we may see you
all. Oh, and if you want a copy of my poopy
training video, (click on this link)
just email back your mailing address and I’ll be glad to put it in
the mail to you. It may give you encouragement when things get
exasperating during the training sessions.
- Really enjoyed your account of cruising the
Abacos! That was some front you
experienced in Marsh Harbor - you were lucky to come through without
a boat bang into you.
My wife and I chartered a Mainship 34 from the Moorings a few years ago.
went in October, after hurricanes but before winter fronts. Had a great
time. We like Hopetown better than Man O War or Green Turtle, but I wonder
if you'll make it in the harbor with your fairly deep draft. I thought the
entrance to Hopetown was nerve-wracking, since it seems shallow
We took a golf cart down to Tahiti Beach. The Abaco Inn is a neat place
lunch, and the beach cafe where the Two Turtles cottages are is also nice.
thought Seaspray Marina seemed like a well-run place, worth a visit.
Definitely do the snorkeling at some of the protected sites around
I wish I was down there instead of scraping frost off my car windshield
looking at my boat sealed up in shrink wrap through our dismal winter.
- MAN A WAR. I HAVE A 23 ALBURY BROTHERS ON ORDER AND SHOULD BE
MARCH 1 AND 20
I BELIEVE THAT WAS MY BOAT IN THE PICS. WHEN WAS THOSE PICS TAKEN AND DO
YOU HAVE MORE OF THE BOAT. THANKS SO MUCH.
December 9, 2005
We are glad to hear that you were able to visit Boothbay Harbor. Yes,
it is a wonderful place. My husbands parents just sold their house
there last year and moved to warmer weather in St. Augustine. We miss
being able to visit them in Boothbay.
We are pleased to hear that you went by Egg Island to see the puffins.
Sorry you did not get to see them. We were fortunate to get to know
Stephen Kress who is the director there. He was on a Galapagos cruise
with us several years ago with the Audubon Society. We were with the
TN Aquarium on the same cruise. He has done some very wonderful work
with the puffins. He invited us to the island and we were able to tour
the facility there. It is our hopes that someday we will be able to
take our boat there and volunteer on the island for several months. If you
would like to visit their web site it is
Susie (Sebastian's mom)
P.S. Sebastian wants me to say hello to Ziggy for him
After reading your mom's log of Boston, it just makes me realize what good
parents you and I have. We are both very lucky boat dogs. I bet
you were glad you were not on the boat during the hurricane. I am glad
the boat is O.K. I don't ever want to go through something like that on our
I would like to be on your update list for new logs if you have one.
My mom enjoys reading about your adventures. She tells me all about
them. Someday soon we will have our own set of adventures. Mom
says our boat will be in Stuart during Christmas for the final
commissioning. My sister Daisy and I hope we can meet you someday.
Your dog pal Sebastian
Larry, Jayne, and of course Ziggy,
I stumbled on your site while researching Nordhavns and enjoyed it very
much! I have to admit that my favorite part was the Poop Deck Snippet!
Where ever did you find that music? I can't get the tune out of my head!
Was just now perusing your website and enjoying your journey up and down the
Hudson, when I came to the part when you were leaving Tarrytown and looked
over towards Nyack and thought you saw a Nordhavn on a mooring in a sea of
sailboats. You did indeed and I am happy to say it was our boat, the
N-40 "Stellar". The Hook Mountain Yacht Club is our home port.
If you are ever in the area again please come over to "our" side of the
river. We have guest moorings ( in a comfortable 10' - 15' of water) which
we offer for free the first night and a good sized dingy dock. From there it
is a 10 minute walk to town (no car rental necessary), which offers a number
of restaurants and pubs that serve every type of food from Thai, Indian,
Mexican, Italian to Sushi. A good coffee and bakery shop, actually 2 if you
count Starbucks and grocery stores with farm fresh (local) produce, etc.
There is plenty of history here as well between the towns of Piermont and
Nyack. Piermont was Henry Hudson's first stop on coming to the area as
it has the first freshwater creek you come to on the river. George
Washington met the British on the shoreline here to accept their surrender
and there are still houses on and near the waterfront that were built by the
Dutch in the 1600's. An altogether interesting and refreshing stop.
We enjoyed your logs and photos and wish you well on your future cruises.
Steven and Lynda Arnell
I just happened to "wander" onto your website while
"dreaming" my way through a couple a' cruising sites.
I have lived and worked here, in Japan, for twelve years and,
if fortune avails itself, I hope, in the not too distant
future, to retire and do a bit of cruising myself.
I have really enjoyed reading, looking at your photos,
"sharing" a bit of your adventures, and sorta' "living
vicariously" through y'all. It really makes my day and I
will continue to read, veeery slooowly, of
The snippets are wonderfully done and are quite enjoyable; I
too love, and have, a dog that allows me to
share her world. Whoever is doing the snippets has a keen
sense of humor and, obviously, knows dogs.
I hope y'all keep them coming.
I hope fortune continues to smile on y'all and you'll have many
more adventures to share. Good Luck !
great website,keep the dream alive,regards,from downunder
cruisers Larry, Jane and Ziggy,
I had to
say hello to thank you both for allowing me to read about you travels and
adventures. It was especially fun to hear about your visits to some of the same
towns and marinas we have stayed at back in 1996 and 1997. Those were the years
when we cruised aboard our C and C landfall 43 sailboat from New York to the
abacos and back.We also did all our cruising with Misty our little dog and can
relate to a lot of your experiences with Ziggy.
about a year old then and was a great little dog on board , the only problem was
we could never get her to do her duty on the boat. That caused me to have to
take her to shore at least twice a day in the avon.
I have been
reading your log every morning while eating my breakfast as a daily ritual and
are now a little upset as I can no longer enjoy your travels as of Tarrytown New
York. For some reason when I try to click on the areas north of Tarrytown there
is no response.
checked your progress and know that you are now north of the cape cod canal,
which is also another area we have cruised. We made it as far north as Boothbay
I know how
hard it is to write these logs and do all the other things required for cruising
, and commend you for a fine job on your web site.
hope I can follow your trip some time in the future again.
and smooth seas to all three of you.
and Misty Dieffenbach
about the same size as Ziggy and Was adopted while we were cruising on our
boat in Saint Michael's Maryland , Misty is a black and white mix of beagle and
terrier , possibly a Jack Russell and we love her very much.
One of my employees Googled 'Lucky Sperm', which lead us to your website. I was
in stitches reading about your misadventures with crew in Cristobal. Imagine, a
crew who can't stand up, see, stay awake on watch, but eats ice cream and
complains all the time.
The amazing this is that there are so many of them.
the years I've become very familiar with situations like that, particularly in
settings like Cristobal, which in an odd way is a favorite place of mine. After
all, how many yacht clubs have slot machines and guys with machine guns at the
grocery store check-out counters? Never a dull moment there.
And wait to you see some of the buffonery in Europe. What makes it extra special
is that people are hollering in five languages so nobody knows what anybodyy is
saying or if they are happy or mad.
I can't wait
to get back!
Anyway, hope you're still having fun.
Executive Editor, Latitude 38
my name is Seth. I was in Panama several years ago and am looking for some
people from there. Did you ever meet a man named Ross, who owned a boat called "Raindancer"
from Washington? I believe he would have been in Bahia Honda and possibly
starting some kind of traveler's lodges, a B&B, a restaurant or something along
would be eternally obliged for any info.
the way your website is wonderful and has brought back many fond memories of
panama and the old BYC.
I read with interest about your trip
to Colonial Beach, VA and I would like to apologize. If you can imagine as
locals we have to experience the same indignities daily. If you or any of your
friends come our way again we would like to invite you to stay at our dock and
partake of my wife's famous Creole cooking and enjoy our neighbor's Southern
I'm sure you will go away with a different
perspective. (Besides we serve free Gin'n'tonics)...
Thanks for sharing your experiences,
Captain Ralph and Kris Mason
"Party Time" - 40' SeaRay
Received March 2005
Many thanks for sharing your experiences with us.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading all your logs. I especially enjoyed reading about
your trip up the ICW from Florida, as it allowed me to reminisce about my own
trip down the ICW in 1999. You stopped at many of the same places we did.
I'm wondering where you'll cruise to this year.
If you decide to continue north to my old stomping
grounds, you will have a great time! New York City is a fabulous place to
visit! From there you can go up the Hudson to the Great Lakes or, as I'd
suggest, cruise out through Long Island Sound to Block Island, Newport,
Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, and Cape Cod. This would be a great summer
cruise! The Great Lakes trip requires an early start up the Hudson and a full
season to complete. So, there's a thought for 2006.
Anyway, keep up the good work and smooth sailing
to all three of you!
I was surfing the web last evening looking at ships logs and ran across your
In your description of St. Michaels were comments about Bill Wilson. I believe
this is the Bill Wilson I worked with in the 1980's. But I've not heard from him
since the early 90's when he changed companies.
Do you have an e-mail address or contact information for him, please.
Thanks for the help - and the interesting web site.
I just wanted to thank you so much for letting me live these adventurers
through you. I hope one day to do the same as you two have. Thanks
Just a quick
note to let you know how much I am enjoying your logs. I found your site about
two months ago and have been reading a little when I can (shhhh!! I'm reading
at work!!!) I just completed the section on the ICW and will be starting the
Chesapeake section later today.
You are doing
what I dream of doing. Alas my wife does not share my passion for boating, so
this may be an unrealized dream. So your logs, and others like it, serve as
vicarious fulfillment of the dream. Keep up the good work!!!
Larry and Jayne:
A SHORT reply but timely. We have the king of fruit flies here with us,
Susan's nephew, who is doing enexplainable doctorial research on bionic research
using fruit flies as vehicles. Oddly, he has no suggestions, but
Susan and I recommend becoming carnivores!! No more bananas!!
BUT, we are now in Kill Devil Hills and were in Onancock yesterday!!!
WHERE were you?? .......... You will like Onancock. Quaint,
pretty, small and comfortable. Wish we had found you as we checked out the
marina and its boats. ................ We love it even is the flies
dominate the log!! Al
Al & Susan
There are several varieties of fruit
flies whose larvae eat their way through fruits.
The drosophilamelanogaster is the one with a very rapid reproduction cycle which
apparently y you had
board. Other varieties include the Mediterranean, Oriental, and Mexican
Perhaps you had some stow aways.
I enjoyed your frantic description. It was humorous, well-told, and once
my opinion that you should be writing. I remember you and the no-see-ums
Maybe it is your sweetness that attracts the bugs and flies. I pictured you in
state of blithering idiocy smacking everything in site. Bet the other
you were wacky.
I know you are probably not interested, but I had a bout with big flies a few
back due to a critter who must have croaked under my frig or some crack in the
We were hatching larvae for weeks. One morning I killed 32 giant flies out
frustration and angst while Bud nonchalantly read the morning paper. He
said he can't
murder an innocent fly! More like lazy.
Susie, the horse fly murdering friend of the fruit fly massacrer.
Read prolog and fascinated with your journey.
Will read rest tomorrow and follow your progress.
Charlie and Sunni Landis
just finished reading all of your web pages last night and was wondering where
you were now, when behold, We were visiting Onancock this afternoon looking for
a resturant and found the boat docked by Hopkins store. You must have been
napping, all was open, shoes and bicycles were sitting on the dock. Maybe I
could have shouted out your name or stole your shoes!! We quietly left.
Boat is more impressive thn pictures can show. and stories are great..
- Howard & Jean Cann
Westover Maryland 21871
jayne & Larry,
A (fruit) fly and a flea in a flu were imprisoned. So what should they do?
Said the fly, let us flee, said the flea, let us fly, so they flew through a
flaw in the flue.
Obviously, our fruit flys like champagne!
Seriously, that was one of the best - and funniest - e-mails we've ever
received! We really do miss you two - and Ziggy!
Steve and Jo
Bernie read your message about the fruit flies and he
thinks it's time for you three to come home. :) He said he was afraid
that you have gone a little wacko on this trip.
La Jolla, California