|
|
|
SAVANNA Heading up to Savanna from St. Simmons was going to be another sea going adventure. We had easy access to the ocean from our marina location at St. Simmons. We left very early in the morning so that we would arrive in Savanna before late afternoon when the thunderstorms typically began. It was grey when we left. Our whole visit was on the grey side as it was very misty out as evidenced in the grey photos that we took. We left the inlet and entered the Atlantic again. The day was fairly normal and we had a nice cruise up the coast. I was taking advantage of the calm conditions by relaxing as I did not have to worry about searching for markers on the ICW. We were going to stay in Thunderbolt Marina which is just south of Savanna proper. There were no marinas per say downtown Savanna except at the Westin across the river. It was fairly expensive as they included in your slip fees use of the hotel amenities which we had no interest in. We figured the logical thing for us to do was stay at Thunderbolt and rent a car, as it was only a few minutes drive to Savanna. This was recommended to us by other boaters and sounded like a good idea. This meant that we would not enter the Savanna area by the Savanna River inlet which is wide and deep. We were going in the more southerly inlet called Wassaw Sound. Larry had called the dock master at Thunderbolt Marina and inquired about the best way to get to the marina. The dock master recommended the Wassaw Sound. He assured Larry that all the locals use it and it was deep enough.
As we got close enough to Wassaw Sound to started our visual search for the channel entrance markers. We had a great deal of difficulty seeing them and of course, as part of our usual test, the seas and winds always seem to perk up when we have to do something important and difficult. In addition to the rough seas, there were half a dozen shrimp boats in the area, all with their nets down, and of course, working right near the entrance to the channel. We were trying to pay attention to the shrimp boats by staying away from where we thought their nets were and also find our markers. The visibility was getting tough. Suddenly the depths got really shallow. We were in minimum depths for our draft and we were still way off shore, out to sea. I could tell Larry was getting very edgy and anxious and telling me to find the markers. Once I realized that the depths were about a foot under us I became anxious too. I searched the area for the markers and I just couldn’t find them. The waves were increasing in height and sometimes you thought you would see a marker and then in a flick of a second it was gone or concealed by the seas. After a very long nervous time, Larry pointed to one and said that was the marker we were looking for and was going to head towards it. We argued back and forth about it as nothing matched to our charts. He assured me it was the right one. It was impossible to tell as there was more than one marker and nothing matched the charts. How could he be sure it was the right one? One mistake and we would be on the shoal. I looked at the charts and suddenly realized that we had a very narrow entrance to get through in some very shallow waters that extended out quite a ways into the Ocean. I was looking for the next markers to identify the channel but none were to be seen. Again, nothing matched my paper charts. It was awful! One wrong turn and we would be stuck on the shoals in these rough seas. I was getting in a panic but Larry assured me we were going in the right direction. The waters were dangerously shallow on either side and a small miscalculation in direction could put us into harms way at any moment. I was beside myself with fear. I couldn’t believe that none of the markers matched either the paper or electronic charts and they were in different locations. Larry said that was because they have moved them because the shoals have changed with storms so they frequently move them to identify the shallow areas as they have moved. Somehow, Larry had confidence in what he was doing and managed to make sense out of the markers as evidenced when we finally got to the calmer more protected waters near the entrance. We managed to stay in the shallow channel without really seeing the markers clearly. It was still hard to see where to go as the inlet seemed to be an optical illusion. We saw shrimp boats anchored by shore and they looked as if they were in the channel at a distance and then when we got closer we realized they were in another channel and so on. It was stressful and we really felt lucky that all went well. Larry kept his cool but was equally stressed by the whole situation. Later that evening I read what the cruising guide had to say about the entry to the Wassaw Sound leading to Wilmington River. It said “we do not recommend it except with up-to-date local knowledge, excellent visibility, calm seas and mid tide” none of which we had. It taught me a great lesson, never to become complacent about where we are going and never to totally trust a recommendation without doing more research. The guide said the “channel markers are uncharted and difficult to locate, except for sea buoy 2W” which is what Larry spotted initially. The guide said all three of the other markers are frequently moved and are “difficult to differentiate as the channel takes a hard turn to the west to round a shoal before heading north”. We certainly experienced all that and the rough seas made it next to impossible to see some of the markers. Another lesson learned but we felt good that we were able to manage through the entrance and make sense of it under stressful situation.
The rest was a piece of cake and the Wilmington River meandered slowly into the marsh lands. We had to be alert to stay within the unmarked channel and find our way to the deeper areas. We’re kind of getting a second sense now as far as running these shallow rivers.
We began to see some beautiful homes on the
river edges. Many looked like plantation homes with large pillars and rolling
lawns to the waters edge. We were very glad to find the Thunderbolt marina
though the docking was not easy when we arrived as the current was at its
strongest and was pushing the boat in every direction except the one that we
wanted to go in. But with persistence Larry got her into a very difficult spot
that they had open and I congratulate him on that.
We were exhausted from the experience of getting in the channel and not anxious to go far for a meal but wanting to have someone else cook dinner so we headed up the road to a café recommended by the marina. It was called Tubby’s and would for the next few days become our favorite restaurant. We settled in, having no idea where we were in proximity to Savanna and what was in the neighboring area. We would find that all our tomorrow.
Our stay in Savanna was our real first taste of
the glory days of the old south. It was fun to immerse ourselves into exploring
and enjoying its old opulence and romantic slow pace. We explored every
neighborhood, never once experiencing a dull moment. Every ornate Iron Gate
that peaked into a lovely garden was a never ending surprise and delight. Entry
doors were a statement of what was behind, either inviting or stately or warning
of a more demure lifestyle. It was a mix of things here and tradition and
family lines rule. Of course the book and movie, Midnight in the Garden of
Good and Evil has definitely left its impression here as souvenirs such
as reproductions of the angel on the cover are everywhere and people are still
wandering past the Mercer house. Thank goodness for the Savanna College of Art
and Design (SCAD) as the school is the primary force in renovating the historic
buildings in Savanna.
There are so many city parks or squares (24 in
all) that it becomes confusing to keep them all straight. The one way streets
lead you down paths that maybe you weren’t intending. The mix of government
buildings, stately mansions, tourist haunts and all mixed with a little walk on
the wild dark side make an unusual visit. The gold domed City Hall anchors the
downtown areas and the Cotton Exchange on the waterfront is a reminder of busy
waterfront days gone by. We took a carriage ride (and Ziggy was welcomed)
which gave us a great overview of the neighborhoods and a little folk lore to
add a bit of interest. I spent my time taking photos of different architectural
elements that attracted my sensibilities as evidenced by the gallery here.
Because we had the car we were able to discover
other neighborhood areas such as south of the Historic District proper which is
the Victorian District. It is approximately 50 blocks of old Victorian Houses,
not mansions but of notable interest and all in varying stages of restoration.
The city is bringing this ghetto back to its glory. The city is a never ending
surprise at every corner. We stopped at one of their grocery stores in the
Victorian District called Piggily Wiggily. I noticed the difference in food
products from what we are used to in Southern California. Things such as
chittlin’s, various forms of country ham such as biscuit size or big ham slices
all with instructions to cook with a half mixture of water and coca cola. The
deli was filled with country fried chicken, all parts, including chicken necks.
Pig’s feet were high on the list of things offered too. Again the produce was
plentiful with huge bundles of collard greens and various other greens. Was the
grocery store was as interesting as any tourist block down town.
Our visit to Savanna also marks our introduction to a couple that were, unbeknownst, to any of us, to be our travel companions for the next several weeks. Joann and Steve Leimberg had just purchased hull #1 of a 50 foot Nordhavn. Rick from Stuart boat yard who worked on both our boats got each of us together by phone. I guess he must have had some intuitive sense that we might be good mix and since we were both traveling in the same direction. It made sense to meet at some point. Larry and Steve had talked to each other while we were both underway. They had been in Savanna for a few days already so we set a time and place to meet. We had missed connecting along the way from Stuart, Florida and this was the first time we were at the same port. So we made arrangements to meet at the Westin across the Savanna River from Savanna for breakfast.
Becoming comfortable with each other we agreed that it would be fun to connect in Beaufort, South Carolina. We both had an upcoming leg on the outside (the Atlantic) and we all agreed it might be nice to do it together. So our plan was, after we explored Savanna, we would catch up with them in Charleston if they were still there. We said our goodbyes as they prepared to leave Savanna that day to head up the ICW stopping wherever the day might end.
We enjoyed our stay at Thunderbolt. We would explore the area by day in our rental car. We’d leave in the morning having breakfast and lunch in the city and by the end of the day we were exhausted and would come back to the boat. We always seemed to have an excuse to walk up the road to Tubby’s for dinner rather than drive back into the city ad try one of its wonderful restaurants. I think it was because we enjoyed Tubby’s so much.
It was the local joint and served great local seafood which was mostly shrimp, at least that’s all I could order because I loved it so much. I couldn’t get past it. I think I ate “spiced peel and eat shrimp” for four nights in a row and was sad that I was leaving and couldn’t have more. We enjoyed the atmosphere too because it was a local family neighborhood place and off the beaten path. The inside was like a warm dark inviting pub and the outside was a big deck that wrapped around a huge tree that must be several hundred years old. The tree’s huge limbs cradled the porch and were a great place to be on a hot evening or afternoon. The front of the big porch deck was filled with old wooden rocking chairs. Several nights we’d walk down with Zig and sit ourselves in those great rocking chairs and order up some fresh steamed shrimp and a couple beers. You’ve never tasted shrimp like these as they were fresh off the boats, caught locally and delicious. I’ve never had anything like them. They were seasoned with a little spice and really were extra good accompanied by the delicious hush puppies. MMMMM, good!
Our
last night there was a special night. It was like a big picnic. They
had the parking lot all roped off and extra tables set up almost overfilling
into the street. They had a live local band playing on the deck. In
the street they had a beer truck parked and were serving beer from the truck.
The local police were invited to keep things orderly but also enjoy in unlimited
food. It was a family affair and packed.
It was time to move on. We now had an incentive to move on a little faster to catch up with Joann and Steve and see if the buddy boating would work out. We had been traveling now a long time by ourselves and it would be nice to have another couple to share things with, so we’ll see how it goes.
|
We immediately clicked as we had so many things
in common. We bonded as we had so much to share having similar boats. We were
both relieved to meet another couple that we could share things with. Joann and
Steve had previously been sail boaters and this was their first power boat.
They were unfamiliar with all the complexities of these boats and we, having
gone through all that on our trip from San Diego to Florida, were happy to share
anything we learned with them. It was much more difficult for them having
bought a boat from a previous owner with out the privilege of getting first hand
information from the owner and then to have no real manual that reflected the
beginnings of a hull #1. We were amazed at the challenge that they had taken
on.
It was so much fun, people just getting together. It reminded me of the
German beer gardens without drunks. We enjoyed that place so much and will
truly miss and dream about it.